Great to see under the cooler, thanks for posting the pics. I might well join you in checking the thermal paste some time. I know it did wonders for the BFL stuff going with arctic silver instead.
So how does one overclock the device? I noticed the extra options part in minepeon but I'm not sure what arguments and values need to be passed. I am curious too on the whole warranty thing. Is there some way they can 'tell' if the device is overclocked? I doubt there'd be some stateful information on the hashing board itself but I could be wrong.
FYI, We are using the Arctic MX-2 paste. Our cooler heads arrive with no paste, just bare copper, as we ordered them that way. During development, I personally did a compare with a bunch of pastes, including the Noctua NT-H1 and the Xigmatek PTI-G4512. We also experimented with special exotic indium foil. I found that among the higher grade pastes, there was little difference. There was a noticeable difference from the stuff they normally pre-apply on the Cool-IT heads, which is one reason why we didn't use that.
What does make a difference is the right pressure, so we modified the mounting to achieve a more even and consistent pressure. It's important that the screws be tightened all the way down until the shoulders stop. You can easily verify this by backing them off 1/4 turn and re-tightening them. When it stops, don't force it.
The reason I am bringing this up, is that some people had screws work lose during shipping, so it's a good idea to check this if you are having uneven temps or overheating. BE SURE TO TURN OFF THE PSU FIRST, but I recommend leaving it plugged into the wall so there is a ground path. This will allow draining of any possible static charge that could damage your rig. Do not attempt this unless you are comfortable working inside electronic equipment! I also don't recommend you mess with it if it's working well.
DO NOT ever remove the cooler head, as you will need to re-apply paste first!
-Phil