There are a handful of exchanges out there that allow you to withdraw 1-2BTC/day without KYC.
But are there any centralized exchanges left which allow you to trade between fiat and bitcoin or vice versa without KYC?
ya, you are right on the main point, exchanges always call themselves decentralized, they use the word "DEX" as a label to advertise, but in reality, its essence is still centralized. And there aren't any exchanges that allow you to trade between fiat and Bitcoin without KYC, maybe someone will mention Binance, but I think they are wrong. Binance has also mistakenly considered USDT or some USD currency on other networks as fiat currency.
Speaking of a truly decentralized exchange, I think new DEXs like PancakeSwap (and other) are truly decentralized.