Thank you gtraah! And, thanks again, all fellow contributors!
Glad you were able to figure out the current mod after all that reading
Most likely, the optimum mod has been figured out and implemented.
Trial and error is over where that particular R&D action goes.
The latest and greatest mod IS replace R52 with a 49.9K 1% tolerance resistor be it SMD or axial.
The choice is yours, although I recommend using the axial 1/4W as it's easiest to handle and solder in, especially for green horns. 50K will work too. IF you go much higher than that, you're pod will start sucking too much juice and waste too much power! BEWARE of the power suckers! They love to steal away your profits and brick your pod! I have personally found that anything over this value is a waste of hashing power. It doesn't pay off at the pool! That is where it counts in the end!
BUT I would not recommend any green horns try this mod themselves. It takes knowledge, experience and a very steady hand to do it correctly. And as you can imagine, this mod isn't for the faint of heart!
It takes a bit of confront to carry out the mod seeing one is risking bricking their pod and losing a fair amount of money!
If you want to have your pod modded professionally, I am sure you can find a good experienced and meticulous tech to do it for you.
I can do mods for anyone located in the USA. PM me for details or email me at wolfey2014@allpower.ws
Thanks again for your nice comments!
Best of luck, mate!
No thank YOU, for your hard work, if I was close by and no shipping costs involved i definitley would have got you to do a few atleast.. But I am down Under - Sydney _ OZ
I have done some soldering in the past , Tiny LED lights on the good old Nokia 8250, Remember the Blue screen ones? Well I had them changing different colours each time you flick the screen on haha, Working in a phone repair shop does that to you, Although I never got that far into that industry to start knowing what all the resistor and Ohm lingo is...
So you recon the Axial is easier? haha thats what I thought but Nemercy recons the SMB is easier I guess its what equipment you use, I mean I do have a steady hand and If I buy these
http://www.ebay.de/itm/181097772265?var=480221522752&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 Is this the 49K?
Also can You please show me a link to get the axial type? In 3 different resistor stages that Nemesy stated to give higher frequency stable Or even Some keywords for me to Search for as this Electrical chip abbreviation codes and keywords is all new to me and I am lost looking at it all.
Also is any solder good to use, I know 0.5 is the size but can I use any 0.5 such as this for eg:
http://www.amazon.com/Veecome-0-5MM-Diameter-Solder-Soldering/dp/B007KXTJSY/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1397057006&sr=8-2-fkmr3&keywords=0.5+mm+Solder+Solder+Flux+Solder+wires+with+tin+lot+SMD+LED
Lets just say My electricity is 0.14-16c Per KWH
Do you think its worth going higher?Especially in the day time while the sun is out we have Solar panels that feed into the grid which they give us a rebate on... But at night its all grid work but it is offpeak rates I guess. Anyway I averaged it all out with the rebate and discounts and off and On peak Its around 0.14-16c Per KWH I pay all round day n night if I use 24/7
Sorry, mate! I can't help you with logistics - down under.
I'd try www.digikey.com I don't know if or who services you guys out there.
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MFR-25FRF52-49K9/49.9KXTR-ND/14629
Nemercry is right, too. The choice however, is yours. Either one will work. Depends on your skill level and tenacity and perfectionism. I suggest axial for reasons already stated and - emphasized!
Can't tell you what do to with your watts. It's entirely up to you how many extra watts you wanna pay for but I do believe that this upgrade is not prohibitively expensive for most. Except those cats in Spain that say they are paying .75/KWh! WHEW!
Just practice and make sure you can get it right the first couple tries if not the first one. Tin your leads before attempting to solder the new resistor to the pcb solder points. I can do it in one shot, of course
To remove the 'old' SMD, heat it up with the tip of your solder iron to soften up the solder connections, put the tip directly on the solder blobs of the chip and pry it off - gently. It will probably either flick off into oblivion or stick to the tip of your soldering iron.
Get rid of it, or save it for later microscopic observation, then tin the solder points of the pcb you just pried the SMD from. Be very careful not to tear the terminal off when you peel the old SMD away! Make sure you melt the solder completely in any case when performing this operation! Overheating and ruining the chip doesn't matter. Melting the solder does! So burn that sucker up of you need to! It's dead meat now, anyway
And as usual, you do this operation at your own risk and expense!
God speed, mate!