Not sure about total cost at this point.
S1 was $375, power supplies were $28 each, heat sinks were a cost but not sure what the breakdown is, the second fan and grille are salvage, the plywood is salvage, the watt meter cost $16, the U1/U2/U2+ cost anywhere between $40 when I started to $18 each for the last batch.
The Anker hubs probably cost about $40 each.
Again, unknown cost of heat sinks for all the chips on 18 of them.
Huge heat sink was free.  Salvaged from an old UPS.  The hold-downs I'm making are also free aluminum scrap bits that I've cut down to use.  The fan and covers for the heat sink are all going to be free salvaged materials as well.

Part of this is the fun of doing something that actually makes a few $$ back in return.
With the S1 in the loop, I've made back 2/3 of its cost in less than a month.

I plan to resistor mod and get a decent boost out of the U1/2/2+ setup once mounted to the new heat sink.

The S1 does a pretty reliable 200GH/s and the U1/2/2+ do a reliable 38GH/s.
Other than putting a back panel on the S1 and maybe painting it's case, I'm done with that.

The real project is getting the Ant Farm done in the next few days.

Of course, I can never leave well enough alone.  Just bought a Gigampz board and a $17 HP power supply.  Cost comes up equal to the two cheaper supplies and is supposed to provide 800+ Watts depending on 115/240VAC connection.  It's also supposed to be more efficient, so I hope that its around 400 watts.  This should also be able to easily power the Ant Farm with a 12VDC to 5VDC adapter.

WOW!
All you guys with lots of expensive rigs.
I'm just a poor hobbist trying to make a couple of extra $$.
My pile of U1/U2/U2+ isn't photo ready yet, I have a new heat sink for those.  I'm calling it my "Ant Farm."  I'll post pics of the heat sink that I have.
Here's my single S1 in a case I built for it.  Added a pull fan to the back, tested power supplies in various positions for cooling, they seem to like being back-to-back on their sides
There will be hinged cover on the back soon but I wanted to at least test to see if the airflow was going to work right.
First pics are on the bench while testing power supplies, installing heat sinks, and testing overclocking.
Unit is overclocked to 393.75 and with the cheapie power supplies, draws just a little over 470W when hot.  Draws 460W when cool.

http://www.chaoticcrafts.com/Antminer/S1/SDC12695.JPG
http://www.chaoticcrafts.com/Antminer/S1/SDC12696.JPG
http://www.chaoticcrafts.com/Antminer/S1/SDC12697.JPG
http://www.chaoticcrafts.com/Antminer/S1/SDC12698.JPG
http://www.chaoticcrafts.com/Antminer/S1/SDC12727.JPG
http://www.chaoticcrafts.com/Antminer/S1/SDC12728.JPG
http://www.chaoticcrafts.com/Antminer/S1/SDC12729.JPG
http://www.chaoticcrafts.com/Antminer/S1/SDC12730.JPG
http://www.chaoticcrafts.com/Antminer/S1/SDC12731.JPG

Pictures of the initial layout of the "Ant Farm" and the heat sink I'm using.
http://www.chaoticcrafts.com/Antminer/Ant%20Farm/SDC12704.JPG
http://www.chaoticcrafts.com/Antminer/Ant%20Farm/SDC12705.JPG
http://www.chaoticcrafts.com/Antminer/Ant%20Farm/SDC12707.JPG

0B81 is 2.4GH/s - 275MHz

This may be an odd thing to say, but it's nice to see a company who designed a product and is actually having it manufactured and is selling it be out of stock on things.
This means you did something very right!
Keep making great product!

Everyone else, be very patient, these boards are completely worth it.

Best to recycle those and get something like an HP/Compaq server power supply with a Gigampz adapter board.
I'm using a single one to power my S1.
Simple, reasonably efficient, and runs my S1 overlocked at 393.75 with no problems.

I have two supplies and boards.  One I plan to use on the S1 full time, the other is for bench testing car amps, stereos, running fuel pumps, etc.
One supply draws about 453 Watts, one draws 460 Watts or more.
Of course, the one that draws more power has quieter fans.
Going to have to take both apart and swap the fans.

I don't worry about getting things all together.
I just use whatever currency and payment method is cheapest to get what I want.

The power supplies can be found on eBay or other places for less than $20 shipped.

The key here is this board makes plugging one in and using it so simple that don't hesitate to buy one.
I've bought two of the cards from Gigampz and the power supplies from elsewhere.

The cards are AWESOME!  Don't hesitate to buy one.

LOL!
I've been doing IT work for 26 years.
When I realized what I did wrong, I felt like an idiot.

I figured that just a small change in description and adding one to the second field, would be enough to help everyone out.
You know, jog our memory as we're trying to not think any more after a day of learning scripting, command line options for various utilities, writing scripts to scan for certain issues, update certain things, automate cleanups and maintenance for others, and deploying customized power options to a series of computers that are being stupid due to default settings that cause problems...

I figured it out.  Might help to have a bit more info here.
Local IP address makes me think that it's the IP of the Ant and the field below is for description.
When I realized that the local IP is that of the computer on which Ant Monitor is running, and then put the IP of the Ant in the next field down.
You might want to change "Local IP Address" or "Local PC IP" to something like "IP of your PC" or "IP of PC Running Monitor".
Then add a description for the next field like "Antminer IP".
http://www.chaoticcrafts.com/misc/MAntMonitor.png

Another couple of updates on my progress.
I'm running Vista 32 Bit under VirtualBox in Linux Mint.
The adapter had put itself on a 10.x.x.x range.  I switched that to bridge to my local adapter to get the local network IP on it.

API mode still does not work, same error.
Leaving API unchecked now puts the proper name in but it's not actually displaying anything else for status.

I also don't know where it's getting this value:
198.105.244.240:4028

That's nowhere near my IP that I put into Ant Monitor.

OK, I feel like an idiot but it seems I'm missing something here.
I downloaded v2.0a and it doesn't work for me.
Other than the Ant Monitor, what software prerequisites are needed to make this monitor the Ant S1?
I've tried with and without API enabled.
With API enabled I get "ERROR" for the name and the app locks up.  
Without API enabled, it has "com" for the name and displays nothing.

Without API, the log shows this:

With API enabled, the log shows this:

Thanks for the heads-up on that.
Makes it even easier to solder a cable to as it's right there on top.
Seconds.

Thank you.
-Sean

I already have enough sacrificial USB cables to add a charging point.
According to the pinout I have, pin 35 (top) and pin 29 (bottom) are both 5VDC.
I'll check them with a meter first but will only take a couple of minutes to solder on a USB socket.

I found the pinout, so I'll probably mod this to add a USB +5VDC connection because not only am I using one of these to power my S1 but the design of your board is so nice and the power supply so good, that I will be using one as a bench test power supply and having a good +5VDC supply to keep small MP3 players charged, or a phone charged, will be handy.

I do car stereo work and sometimes you have to bench test things but amps require a minimum of 30A when they get up into the higher power range.  Accessories that use USB (like the little Sansa MP3 player I use) need 5V to at least keep the batteries charged, so tapping into those pins will be good.

It's so nice that I just bought another one and another power supply to use to bench test car amplifiers.

I notice that the supply can also provide +5VDC @ 2A.
Have you thought about putting a USB connector on the board to provide power for things like a Raspberry Pi?

Instead of changing your router settings, you can use an Ethernet crossover cable, plus a computer or laptop directly connected into the antminer, set an IP on the Ethernet port on the PC to one near the ant, then be able to program it to an IP on your network.

I run my network on a 172.x.x.x range because way too many people use 192.x.x.x or 10.x.x.x.
A few minutes with a crossover cable, set the right settings, and it matches your network.

Thanks for the info.
I started a little late in the game and bought a set of 9 USB ASIC miners with an Anker hub earlier this year..
I managed to sell off the miners at a reasonable cost and buy some AntMiner U1's.  As the cost of those dropped, I bought a couple more, then bought a U2, another 9 port Anker hub (the hubs were cheap enough and I will always have a use for a good USB hub), then ended up buying a couple of batches of U2+.  I've got a new heat sink setup for those almost ready and will resistor mod all the U1 and the one U2, and measure the resistors on the U2+ to see what values they're running.

I've put heat sinks on every chip of the S1, as well as the voltage regulators.  I'm doing the same with the USB sticks as well.
With the heat sinks, enclosure I built, and secondary fan, I've got it overclocked to 393.75 and it runs with 0.8% HW error or less and the temps, even in the summer heat, hit about 48C and it just keeps chugging along.  In the first month it's probably had a 50% ROI.

The thing is, each time I have enough Bitcoin, I turn around and convert it to dollars to pay some of my credit card bill (not because of the miners, just need the cash to pay it) so I'm not hanging on to BTC long enough but at the price I'm getting, with BTC ~ $450-$470 USD, the extra couple of hundred that has gone to the credit card makes a big difference.

Damn, love the rack setups.
My question for everyone with these huge amounts of equipment, how do you afford it?
My financial situation isn't one where I can plop down over $2k on an S2, let alone racks full of them.
I think I've almost broken even on my S1 and no idea if I've come close to breaking even on my stickminers (haven't calculated that cost out).