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Re: [GUIDE] GridSeed GC3355 5 Chip Setup/power/windows/linux/rpi by UnicornHasher
Can anyone point me in the right direction on how to compile girnyau version of CGMiner on the Hashra image for RPI? I am having some problems with the stock BFG mine on modded units and this is what people suggest doing. I am a noob to this and have never compiled anything ever. 
try CPUminer, BFGminer did not submit shares correctly for me.
Thanks I will try this tonight. Any reason why all the sudden BFGminer would not work? Or does it not just work with the higher modded units? I am currently using the hashra image on my Raspberry pi to run the bulk of the miners, so hoping to stay with BFG.
What version were you running? 1.3.3 (Current as far as I know) has support for the higher clocks. I had some units that didnt accept shares when running higher, but at 850mhz all my units checked in and got shares. I really like the Hashra image gui, thinking of just reverting to stock for now and running it. How hard was it to put in the CGminer fork?
OK just got my resistors today, I undid the previous 2 solder mods and put on this one. At 1000mhz i don't seem to be accepting any shares, also using 0 Watts measured with the Kilowatt. Any ideas?
Double check the continuity with your DVM..
The inside solder point looks open...
Solder it to one or the other points next to each other. They are the same connection on the pcb as one was for a capacitor next to R52
Always double check.
It really sounds like your resistor is not in circuit.
I have resoldered this twice now and tested with DMM in OHM mode, I get a drop across the reistor for sure, but still not working. I think my problem is I have messed up the pad on the outside where the resistor goes. Anywhere else I can tie into? Maybe from the bottom if I have to?
Well, shit fire!, Hashfire! Looks like you went and messed it up pretty good there matey!
Yep, I see cold solder joints all over the place i.e. OPENS = not a closed circuit.
If that particular resistor is out of circuit, you will see what you're seeing, no share submittals.
Are you using resin core solder? Doesn't look like there's any resin there. This is what cleans and helps the solder stick to the copper conductors. Without resin (flux) you are going to have the problems you've been having with soldering. Also temperature needs to be correct, even a little bit too high, but not much!
The corresponding pad (solder point) to the outer connection you are trying to make is the one just to the back (closest to the outside edge of the pcb) solder point where you soldered the inner point to.
Look at where the old resistor was connected. Those are the two solder points you can solder your resistor to. Trying to solder a 1/4W resistor to those two very close in points is going to be very difficult for a beginner or novice. It's even a tiny bit difficult for me but I can do it via techniques I know.
De-solder the resistor from the card. Use flux/resin core solder or some flux and put some on the solder points, then tin (solder) the points so they are clean and nice and rounded on the tops. Using resin will allow the solder to flow and it will cooperate with you and gravity perfectly.
Then, in the same way, tin the ends of the resistor leads. Then, heat both the solder point and the resistor tips at the same time and let them melt together into one beautiful SHINY solder blob.
The solder will shine brightly when done correctly. It will be dull if not.
Other than this, if you can't get it done right, please send it to someone who is qualified - like me - to do it for you!
Believe me, if you keep trying and fail, you just might do irreversible damage to those connections, then that will be it. Time to buy another miner to replace the nice pretty paper weight you just made
Here is the result of doing it correctly....*******************************
http://i.imgur.com/OZLPrVE.jpg
*************************************************************
Remember, I can do this mod for you or anyone who needs it done by a professional. PM me for details.
And...
as usual, you do this mod at your own risk and expense.
Good luck!
Wolfey2014
OK redid the soldering (Still not my best looking work) and it works, kind of. The pad was not destroyed. I am able to get a good continuity now on a few different places and now measure the resistance across the resistor when not specially on it. So I think its in the circuit. I am using solder with flux in it, I also have a flux pen I used.
So when I hook this up to BFGminer it runs but is only getting a share every once and a great while, so it shows as running at something like 15kh/s and at the pool 7kh/s, this is over 4 hours. So something is still not right. Any ideas?
I would like to get this one up and running before I try another. I think what all I have learned on this one should make the others go much more smoothly.
One idea I did have was if for some reason it's suggested that outside pad is bad, why could I not just solder in a small jump wire in the pic below, the green? That outside pad is a good anchoring point but in my case it might be overheated?
http://i.imgur.com/ZG5AR9V.jpg
I see micky mouse has been hard at work!
Just kidding Hashfire! 
Looks like,,,nah, never mind...Anyway, good try. Still it looks like your solder just isn't getting hot enough to melt properly.
Also, the rear point next to the edge of the card might be open although I can't see how it could be, unless it was made that way by accident.
You need to test probe more than just the resistor. That won't tell you what you need to know.
You need to test probe between the inner solder point and the pin of the chip it connects to. You can see the copper (red coated) track going from the solder point to the chip's pin. You need to probe that point and the resistor to make sure you have 100% continuity between those two points. Same for the rear outer solder point next to the edge of the card and the outer solder point of the original SMD resistor where there is nothing soldered to it now.
Make sure you have good continuity there. If not, then your connection/s is/are still open.
Yes, you can bridge between the outer solder pad/point of the original SMD and the new resistor solder point, unless somehow Gridseed engineers decided to change that trace for some reason, which is highly doubtful.
Lastly, but actually primary and firstly, did you ever check the performance of the miner before you made the modification? I always do this before making any changes. It is very important to make sure your pod isn't a piece of junk in the first place, eh?
You know the drill. You do the work, you take all the risk and responsibility for the outcome.
God speed, my son!
Wolfey2014
I did test the miner before modding, it was running the previous 2 bridge mod without major problem as far as I know. I can turn up the heat, I believe I have been using around 350C. Any recomendation on amount of heat to use? It was working for everything else ok, I was fearful of turning up too much since I know too much heat is dangerous too. It's a new soldering station but quite an improvement from the old.
Can you make a diagram to show where I should be testing with the DMM? I know it would be quite helpful for me and probably helpful for others in the future.
I am planning test CPU minergonight, but I don't think that will make much difference. I then will take it apart again tonight, clean it all up best I can use, a new 49.9k resistor that I have first tinned and have a clean go using flux and some more heat. This has been a mess but it's a mess of my making. Assuming the main chips are ok yet, I think the damage can be reversed and I can get it up and running at least in stock form.
Hashfire, Do yourself a favor and get some soldering flux (like wolfey mentioned) and copper braid. You have WAY too much solder on there which is likely causing your heat transfer problems. The solution isn't to always turn up the heat. Solder flux will help the heat and solder flow easily to all of the components. You can actually damage your tips by using excess heat if you don't have them tinned/maintained well enough. Put some solder flux on all of those joints, then use some copper braid on top of the joints and apply heat to the copper with your iron to remove that excess solder. Once you have it cleaned up, then worry about fixing the joints. Flux and braid will help you remove bridges as well. Also, if you see excess solder building up on the tip of your iron, just wipe it off on a wet sponge and go back at it. It's important to keep your tip tinned and clean. You can find braid and flux at your local radioshack if you're in the U.S.
Thanks, I have some liquid soldering flux, in a pen. Kind of like this. http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?sku=70177953&mkwid=6kTPp5T7&pcrid=18584040739&gclid=CP28hsas4L0CFUVgMgodrC0Aew I will take it all apart, clean with rubbing alcohol on a QTip, flux, tin and try again. I do hae the wet sponge and braid. Not my first time, but this one just hasn't gone well. Thanks for the help.
OK just got my resistors today, I undid the previous 2 solder mods and put on this one. At 1000mhz i don't seem to be accepting any shares, also using 0 Watts measured with the Kilowatt. Any ideas?
Double check the continuity with your DVM..
The inside solder point looks open...
Solder it to one or the other points next to each other. They are the same connection on the pcb as one was for a capacitor next to R52
Always double check.
It really sounds like your resistor is not in circuit.
I have resoldered this twice now and tested with DMM in OHM mode, I get a drop across the reistor for sure, but still not working. I think my problem is I have messed up the pad on the outside where the resistor goes. Anywhere else I can tie into? Maybe from the bottom if I have to?
Well, shit fire!, Hashfire! Looks like you went and messed it up pretty good there matey!
Yep, I see cold solder joints all over the place i.e. OPENS = not a closed circuit.
If that particular resistor is out of circuit, you will see what you're seeing, no share submittals.
Are you using resin core solder? Doesn't look like there's any resin there. This is what cleans and helps the solder stick to the copper conductors. Without resin (flux) you are going to have the problems you've been having with soldering. Also temperature needs to be correct, even a little bit too high, but not much!
The corresponding pad (solder point) to the outer connection you are trying to make is the one just to the back (closest to the outside edge of the pcb) solder point where you soldered the inner point to.
Look at where the old resistor was connected. Those are the two solder points you can solder your resistor to. Trying to solder a 1/4W resistor to those two very close in points is going to be very difficult for a beginner or novice. It's even a tiny bit difficult for me but I can do it via techniques I know.
De-solder the resistor from the card. Use flux/resin core solder or some flux and put some on the solder points, then tin (solder) the points so they are clean and nice and rounded on the tops. Using resin will allow the solder to flow and it will cooperate with you and gravity perfectly.
Then, in the same way, tin the ends of the resistor leads. Then, heat both the solder point and the resistor tips at the same time and let them melt together into one beautiful SHINY solder blob.
The solder will shine brightly when done correctly. It will be dull if not.
Other than this, if you can't get it done right, please send it to someone who is qualified - like me - to do it for you!
Believe me, if you keep trying and fail, you just might do irreversible damage to those connections, then that will be it. Time to buy another miner to replace the nice pretty paper weight you just made
Here is the result of doing it correctly....*******************************
http://i.imgur.com/OZLPrVE.jpg
*************************************************************
Remember, I can do this mod for you or anyone who needs it done by a professional. PM me for details.
And...
as usual, you do this mod at your own risk and expense.
Good luck!
Wolfey2014
OK redid the soldering (Still not my best looking work) and it works, kind of. The pad was not destroyed. I am able to get a good continuity now on a few different places and now measure the resistance across the resistor when not specially on it. So I think its in the circuit. I am using solder with flux in it, I also have a flux pen I used.
So when I hook this up to BFGminer it runs but is only getting a share every once and a great while, so it shows as running at something like 15kh/s and at the pool 7kh/s, this is over 4 hours. So something is still not right. Any ideas?
I would like to get this one up and running before I try another. I think what all I have learned on this one should make the others go much more smoothly.
One idea I did have was if for some reason it's suggested that outside pad is bad, why could I not just solder in a small jump wire in the pic below, the green? That outside pad is a good anchoring point but in my case it might be overheated?
http://i.imgur.com/ZG5AR9V.jpg
I see micky mouse has been hard at work!
Just kidding Hashfire! Looks like,,,nah, never mind...Anyway, good try. Still it looks like your solder just isn't getting hot enough to melt properly.
Also, the rear point next to the edge of the card might be open although I can't see how it could be, unless it was made that way by accident.
You need to test probe more than just the resistor. That won't tell you what you need to know.
You need to test probe between the inner solder point and the pin of the chip it connects to. You can see the copper (red coated) track going from the solder point to the chip's pin. You need to probe that point and the resistor to make sure you have 100% continuity between those two points. Same for the rear outer solder point next to the edge of the card and the outer solder point of the original SMD resistor where there is nothing soldered to it now.
Make sure you have good continuity there. If not, then your connection/s is/are still open.
Yes, you can bridge between the outer solder pad/point of the original SMD and the new resistor solder point, unless somehow Gridseed engineers decided to change that trace for some reason, which is highly doubtful.
Lastly, but actually primary and firstly, did you ever check the performance of the miner before you made the modification? I always do this before making any changes. It is very important to make sure your pod isn't a piece of junk in the first place, eh?
You know the drill. You do the work, you take all the risk and responsibility for the outcome.
God speed, my son!
Wolfey2014
I did test the miner before modding, it was running the previous 2 bridge mod without major problem as far as I know. I can turn up the heat, I believe I have been using around 350C. Any recomendation on amount of heat to use? It was working for everything else ok, I was fearful of turning up too much since I know too much heat is dangerous too. It's a new soldering station but quite an improvement from the old.
Can you make a diagram to show where I should be testing with the DMM? I know it would be quite helpful for me and probably helpful for others in the future.
I am planning test CPU minergonight, but I don't think that will make much difference. I then will take it apart again tonight, clean it all up best I can use, a new 49.9k resistor that I have first tinned and have a clean go using flux and some more heat. This has been a mess but it's a mess of my making. Assuming the main chips are ok yet, I think the damage can be reversed and I can get it up and running at least in stock form.
try CPUminer, BFGminer did not submit shares correctly for me.
Thanks I will try this tonight. Any reason why all the sudden BFGminer would not work? Or does it not just work with the higher modded units? I am currently using the hashra image on my Raspberry pi to run the bulk of the miners, so hoping to stay with BFG.
OK just got my resistors today, I undid the previous 2 solder mods and put on this one. At 1000mhz i don't seem to be accepting any shares, also using 0 Watts measured with the Kilowatt. Any ideas?
http://i.imgur.com/EgWRBBH.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/0nWg0uA.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/EgWRBBH.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/0nWg0uA.jpg
Double check the continuity with your DVM..
The inside solder point looks open...
Solder it to one or the other points next to each other. They are the same connection on the pcb as one was for a capacitor next to R52
Always double check.
It really sounds like your resistor is not in circuit.
I have resoldered this twice now and tested with DMM in OHM mode, I get a drop across the reistor for sure, but still not working. I think my problem is I have messed up the pad on the outside where the resistor goes. Anywhere else I can tie into? Maybe from the bottom if I have to?
Well, shit fire!, Hashfire! Looks like you went and messed it up pretty good there matey!
Yep, I see cold solder joints all over the place i.e. OPENS = not a closed circuit.
If that particular resistor is out of circuit, you will see what you're seeing, no share submittals.
Are you using resin core solder? Doesn't look like there's any resin there. This is what cleans and helps the solder stick to the copper conductors. Without resin (flux) you are going to have the problems you've been having with soldering. Also temperature needs to be correct, even a little bit too high, but not much!
The corresponding pad (solder point) to the outer connection you are trying to make is the one just to the back (closest to the outside edge of the pcb) solder point where you soldered the inner point to.
Look at where the old resistor was connected. Those are the two solder points you can solder your resistor to. Trying to solder a 1/4W resistor to those two very close in points is going to be very difficult for a beginner or novice. It's even a tiny bit difficult for me but I can do it via techniques I know.
De-solder the resistor from the card. Use flux/resin core solder or some flux and put some on the solder points, then tin (solder) the points so they are clean and nice and rounded on the tops. Using resin will allow the solder to flow and it will cooperate with you and gravity perfectly.
Then, in the same way, tin the ends of the resistor leads. Then, heat both the solder point and the resistor tips at the same time and let them melt together into one beautiful SHINY solder blob.
The solder will shine brightly when done correctly. It will be dull if not.
Other than this, if you can't get it done right, please send it to someone who is qualified - like me - to do it for you!
Believe me, if you keep trying and fail, you just might do irreversible damage to those connections, then that will be it. Time to buy another miner to replace the nice pretty paper weight you just made
Here is the result of doing it correctly....*******************************
http://i.imgur.com/OZLPrVE.jpg
*************************************************************
Remember, I can do this mod for you or anyone who needs it done by a professional. PM me for details.
And...
as usual, you do this mod at your own risk and expense.
Good luck!
Wolfey2014
OK redid the soldering (Still not my best looking work) and it works, kind of. The pad was not destroyed. I am able to get a good continuity now on a few different places and now measure the resistance across the resistor when not specially on it. So I think its in the circuit. I am using solder with flux in it, I also have a flux pen I used.
http://i.imgur.com/DuIiU0L.jpg
So when I hook this up to BFGminer it runs but is only getting a share every once and a great while, so it shows as running at something like 15kh/s and at the pool 7kh/s, this is over 4 hours. So something is still not right. Any ideas?
http://i.imgur.com/J1bc9zi.png
I would like to get this one up and running before I try another. I think what all I have learned on this one should make the others go much more smoothly.
One idea I did have was if for some reason it's suggested that outside pad is bad, why could I not just solder in a small jump wire in the pic below, the green? That outside pad is a good anchoring point but in my case it might be overheated?
http://i.imgur.com/ZG5AR9V.jpg
OK just got my resistors today, I undid the previous 2 solder mods and put on this one. At 1000mhz i don't seem to be accepting any shares, also using 0 Watts measured with the Kilowatt. Any ideas?
http://i.imgur.com/EgWRBBH.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/0nWg0uA.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/EgWRBBH.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/0nWg0uA.jpg
Double check the continuity with your DVM..
The inside solder point looks open...
Solder it to one or the other points next to each other. They are the same connection on the pcb as one was for a capacitor next to R52
Always double check.
It really sounds like your resistor is not in circuit.
I have resoldered this twice now and tested with DMM in OHM mode, I get a drop across the reistor for sure, but still not working. I think my problem is I have messed up the pad on the outside where the resistor goes. Anywhere else I can tie into? Maybe from the bottom if I have to?
OK just got my resistors today, I undid the previous 2 solder mods and put on this one. At 1000mhz i don't seem to be accepting any shares, also using 0 Watts measured with the Kilowatt. Any ideas?
http://i.imgur.com/EgWRBBH.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/0nWg0uA.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/EgWRBBH.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/0nWg0uA.jpg
I successfully did the the soldering mod by bridging the 2 gaps with some 30 gauge wire, and the 5V Fan mod. I am running 12 on a Raspberry Pi using the Hashra image (V1.3.3). At 850mhz everything works, I have one GS that is really slow to get shares though. Over the past 11 hours, All theo ther units have gotten about 3200-3300 shares. This problematic one has only 125. At 900mhz or 950mhz it and one other unit report as running but wont accept any shares.
Any ideas why this is happening? I am kind of unsure how to even figure out which unit this is physically since I don't know where numbering starts on the USB hub or how the Hashra image assigns it.
Any ideas why this is happening? I am kind of unsure how to even figure out which unit this is physically since I don't know where numbering starts on the USB hub or how the Hashra image assigns it.
for me hashra crashes after a few hours, tested with 19 miners, and i cant simply open the webpage after a few hours
Mine doesnt crash but it restarts once or twice a day. I am guessing that is built into the Chron by default. It's quick and I don't mind much although it should be configurable. Does Hashra participate in the conversation about their image at all?
I am having great luck with the 1.2.7 image for my seeds. I am in the process of doing the modifications tot overclock and needing 950mhz as an option. It would be great if we could have increased capabilities in this regard. I would contribute a small reward to this.
Hi,
as you know Wolfey has done fantastic job on modding his GDs.
He is using 0.125W 38k resistor.
I can buy this resistor locally http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/metal-film-06w-39k-ohm-resistor-m39k
This one is 0.6W 39k and I'm not sure if difference in W makes any difference . 0.125W and 0.6W.
Can I use 0.6W instead of 0.125W ?
Thank you very much for your help
as you know Wolfey has done fantastic job on modding his GDs.
He is using 0.125W 38k resistor.
I can buy this resistor locally http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/metal-film-06w-39k-ohm-resistor-m39k
This one is 0.6W 39k and I'm not sure if difference in W makes any difference . 0.125W and 0.6W.
Can I use 0.6W instead of 0.125W ?
Thank you very much for your help
Thanks for your kind words.
As I stated in my PM's back to you, .6W 39K should be fine.
The main purpose of the wattage spec of 1/8W resistor is that the physical size is not too big to fit and the wires on the resistor are not too big to fit over and solder to the solder points on the pcb.
De-solder the 36K and replace it with the 38/39K resistor. You can solder it across the two solder points put there for the resistor / capacitor network. They left the capacitor out during manufacturing so there are two extra points one can use to solder the resistor wire across them.
Simply solder the new resistor in place like I did in the attached pics.
Here are the pics of my handy work. Please excuse the left over resin (black stuff) around the resistor connections. I didn't have any pcb cleaner on hand at the time, but the resin won't hurt a thing as it is completely non-conductive. Just looks a little bit messy
All mods - Resistor - Jumpers - Pencil trace - 5V Fan connections
http://i.imgur.com/l7XM4hc.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/S1XEaUU.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/uTknHx5.jpg 5V fan connections - http://i.imgur.com/yhuGpmS.jpg
Red wire (+) intentionally connected to the tiny fuse (FB25) as it's easier to solder to than any other point.
Fan start-up current is 140mA for 1.2sec then levels out to 78mA constant.
Tin your wire (if it isn't already) before you solder to the fuse terminal so as to keep from accidentally de-soldering the chip from the pcb. This way, it only takes a second to solder the wire to the terminal.
If this helps you, please feel free to show your appreciation by sending some coin.
Not mandatory but, very appreciated!
BTC = 13y5XhVuKGrRipbvYdcrvYDsx69rBPUbwR
LTC = LR6U7jB2Fb4pJYogbergqQHZgBRQ5UAqBG
Make these modifications at your own risk!
Peace!
Wolfey2014
Pea Ess, if you want me to make these modifications for you, PM me and we'll discuss it.
I am certainly qualified to do it, without bricking your pod of course!
Thanks for the photos. How safely can we mix and match these mods? Right now I don't have an iron tip fine enough to do the soldering mods. I either need to modify something or order something. I am interested in the pencil mod and the fan mod tonight though. Would this be safe?
Fan to +5V USB: works!
silent like the usb fans
silent like the usb fans
Do you have a picture of a post number of this fan mod? I just got ten and at waist height they are running at 68 db.
So if you can solder the risks are very minimal considering you can unsolder the bridge if you need to. I am running my test seed at the moment with BFGMiner, There should be no problems doing this mod with that right?
So I'm getting one of these babies in pretty soon, what's the best miner soft to use.
I've seen on crypto blog that with BFG you don't need to replace any driver just plug in and mine,
can you confirm that?
so many here seem to prefer cpuminer but being able to use cgwatcher seems appealing!
Yep that is the guide I used. You still need the basic normal drivers that are not included in windows. I did it because I wanted to know the hash rate, adn CPUMiner was not showing that without switching drivers at that time I believe.
Well I had full intentions of modding mine tonight until I opened it up and saw the size of the resistors. For reference I put a grain of rice by the resistors. It's 7 resistors long. I am going to have to look into a different tip on the soldering iron and maybe a jig or something.
Grain of rice for reference.
http://i.imgur.com/WDIV8Di.jpg
Grain of rice for reference.
http://i.imgur.com/WDIV8Di.jpg
So if you can solder the risks are very minimal considering you can unsolder the bridge if you need to. I am running my test seed at the moment with BFGMiner, There should be no problems doing this mod with that right?