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Showing 6 of 6 results by harpss1ngh
got same problem like harpss1ngh like i understand ferrite bead possible to change with 0 ohm resistor. correct?
PS: my Blade still not moded with 39k resistor, but all heat sink, cooling already done.
PS: my Blade still not moded with 39k resistor, but all heat sink, cooling already done.
Only if you have a high quality ATX PSU and 18AWG power cable, (although that's what everyone should be using, not the crappy DC adapters.)
I do use an ATX PSU but I still ended up ordering a Ferrite Bead 100mhz@330ohm 1.5A of size 0805 from the bay to be safe:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181410119006
The AFBxx and FBxx are ferrite beads. worst case, you can replace them with zero ohm resistors.
I bought 2 failed blades with the same trouble and managed to get them back to life.
The best way to solder themthose parts is with an hot air station.
I posted a few pages ago a step by step guide to check what is failed on a blade.
Follow it, and post your results.
Obviously, you will need to replace the FB before testiong the usb part of the board.
You may also have to replace AME8805 chip.
If so, they are selling either on utsource or ebay for cheap, and I also have a few ones I can send for the price I paid them from utsource + shipping from France.
Worst thing that could have happened is the STM32 chip fried since we don't have the firmware for it.
I'll try to extract it, but not sure when.
when the STM32 chip is fried, you will get low voltage at the output of the AME8805 instead of 3.3v, and the capacitors next to the crystal will read either zero or infinite when using the ohm-meter. I can't remember which value it was.
Soldering the STM32 is not easy at all, i took me some time to get all pins correctly aligned.
If you got no reply within 2 days, just PM me, I'm quite busy at the moment.
And when/if you revive the blade, just lower the resistor from 43k to 39k, the extra power draw isn't worth it anymore.
I bought 2 failed blades with the same trouble and managed to get them back to life.
The best way to solder themthose parts is with an hot air station.
I posted a few pages ago a step by step guide to check what is failed on a blade.
Follow it, and post your results.
Obviously, you will need to replace the FB before testiong the usb part of the board.
You may also have to replace AME8805 chip.
If so, they are selling either on utsource or ebay for cheap, and I also have a few ones I can send for the price I paid them from utsource + shipping from France.
Worst thing that could have happened is the STM32 chip fried since we don't have the firmware for it.
I'll try to extract it, but not sure when.
when the STM32 chip is fried, you will get low voltage at the output of the AME8805 instead of 3.3v, and the capacitors next to the crystal will read either zero or infinite when using the ohm-meter. I can't remember which value it was.
Soldering the STM32 is not easy at all, i took me some time to get all pins correctly aligned.
If you got no reply within 2 days, just PM me, I'm quite busy at the moment.
And when/if you revive the blade, just lower the resistor from 43k to 39k, the extra power draw isn't worth it anymore.
Thanks for your reply J4bberwock. Ill look at the guide when I have a moment. I unscrewed the Blade and have inspected the pcb's. Photss are below:
http://i59.tinypic.com/mwctbl.jpg
http://i57.tinypic.com/vzfo13.jpg
From looking at the pcb ls with a magnifying glass I can't see any other damaged components other than the ferrite bead at AFB26. Can anyone confirm from the pics if that appears to be the case? If so can someone provide me with the part number of the replacement or the 0ohm replacement as mentioned earlier. Also can I have part numbers for the 220f 35v cap and 39k resistor to mod other blades
Also any other recommended changes? More heatsinks, power connector mod, etc? Im using a 750w enermax psu and 18awg cables it has a cheap connector however, one of which melted so any recommendation on the plug to replace? Also is it worth changing the barrel socket to a better rather than screw terminals or directly soldering, etc?
Hi, I bought a Blade which is modified with 35v 220uf capacitor, 43k ohm resistor 0.1 +/-, 2 custom heat sinks attached on the rear of each power board, passive heatsinks on the all Mosfets and chokes.
I'm using a 750w PSU to power it as well as 2 stock unmodified Gridseed blades. I only had it running for a couple hours when the PSU shut down. I looked at the modified blade and there are scorch marks between the Barrel connector and USB port, the chip that visibly appears to be fried is the one between the USB and Barrel port labelled AFR26.
Pics of the blades below:
http://i59.tinypic.com/50i9dz.jpg
http://i60.tinypic.com/10f6ip5.jpg
http://i59.tinypic.com/2udxgcp.jpg
http://i58.tinypic.com/212sq68.jpg
As the mosfets and chokes, etc all have heatsinks on them I can't see what else is fried from a quick inspection. Would this have been caused by overclocking too much? I set the clocks between 1000mhz and 1038mhz which the seller said they run stable at.
I can do a bit of soldering so if anyone can guide me on where I can get the components I can probably fix it myself. Also do you recommend I change anything else that hasn't been modified to improve it, i.e barrel connector, heatsink, etc.
Also one of the barrel power connectors from the PSU has its plastic melted slightly but the connector itself looks fine and there are no burn marks on it.
I'm using a 750w PSU to power it as well as 2 stock unmodified Gridseed blades. I only had it running for a couple hours when the PSU shut down. I looked at the modified blade and there are scorch marks between the Barrel connector and USB port, the chip that visibly appears to be fried is the one between the USB and Barrel port labelled AFR26.
Pics of the blades below:
http://i59.tinypic.com/50i9dz.jpg
http://i60.tinypic.com/10f6ip5.jpg
http://i59.tinypic.com/2udxgcp.jpg
http://i58.tinypic.com/212sq68.jpg
As the mosfets and chokes, etc all have heatsinks on them I can't see what else is fried from a quick inspection. Would this have been caused by overclocking too much? I set the clocks between 1000mhz and 1038mhz which the seller said they run stable at.
I can do a bit of soldering so if anyone can guide me on where I can get the components I can probably fix it myself. Also do you recommend I change anything else that hasn't been modified to improve it, i.e barrel connector, heatsink, etc.
Also one of the barrel power connectors from the PSU has its plastic melted slightly but the connector itself looks fine and there are no burn marks on it.
Re: HASHRA CONTROLA FIRMWARE FOR GRIDSEED MINERS INCLUDING "BLADE"
Whats the latest version?
1.4.5 for 5 chip
1.4.5.1 for G-Blades
Since no one has announced it yet, 1.4.5 update is available, just updated now 
Fantastic update as always, can now set individual frequencies! Great job
Is there a changelog of the changes in this release?
Thanks again
Fantastic update as always, can now set individual frequencies! Great job
Is there a changelog of the changes in this release?
Thanks again