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Did you check that IC if it has a number or letters read them and try to search it through Google and maybe you can find the same IC.
If it is HMBWA under that IC then there is a trusted supplier that I know where you can buy it.
Check this link https://www.zeusbtc.com/ASIC-Miner-Repair/Parts-Tools-Details.asp?ID=1223
You can also try to ask them if that IC is what exactly you looking for.
If it is HMBWA under that IC then there is a trusted supplier that I know where you can buy it.
Check this link https://www.zeusbtc.com/ASIC-Miner-Repair/Parts-Tools-Details.asp?ID=1223
You can also try to ask them if that IC is what exactly you looking for.
It's exactly that one, but they don't want to give the specs. There are tons of these boosters sold by suppliers like Mouser, Farnell, Digikey, but we need to know the exact specs so we can order the right one. ZEUS is selling the garbage ones from China for 5 times the price... I refuse to buy my electronic parts from Chinese suppliers as they take advantage of these parts being used for mining and pump up te prices x10... So not only me, but a whole group of antminer repair guys are looking for the exact specs of this part lol
He should have bought bitcoin instead of buying miners. Stuff like these is the reason why I don't recommend mining to anybody. Mining with a GPU rig or two is fine but when it gets "too big", then the real problems will start. Why suffer the headache with mining when you can just buy crypto and chill? This don't make one bit of sense to me.
Because you keep on adding coinzz even through a bear market. Creating cashflow/cryptoflow is never a bad thing
Hello, I've been searching a lot to find the exact product or product number for the U7 part on the S17+ hashboard.
It's almost impossible to find exaclty the specs this part has. I have my electronic suppliers where I buy all my parts, they have a lot of different specs of this part.
Anyone here knows which one it is exactly?
I'll throw in the link to the picture here below:
https://support.bitmain.com/hc/en-us/community/posts/900002830883-S17-hashboard-chip-U7
It's almost impossible to find exaclty the specs this part has. I have my electronic suppliers where I buy all my parts, they have a lot of different specs of this part.
Anyone here knows which one it is exactly?
I'll throw in the link to the picture here below:
https://support.bitmain.com/hc/en-us/community/posts/900002830883-S17-hashboard-chip-U7
Re: Right sizes and model resistors and capacitors for hashboards
Try to contact zeusbtc if they have available capacitors and resistors or try to check this link below
- https://www.zeusbtc.com/ASIC-Miner-Repair/Antminer-Parts/Capacitor/
Why don't you just check the model name of the capacitor? you can use it to search on Google to find where you can buy them. However, you can try ZeusBTC and I think they have parts that you need for s17 units.
- https://www.zeusbtc.com/ASIC-Miner-Repair/Antminer-Parts/Capacitor/
Why don't you just check the model name of the capacitor? you can use it to search on Google to find where you can buy them. However, you can try ZeusBTC and I think they have parts that you need for s17 units.
I already did, they are really difficult to communicate with once you go in to detailed technical questions.
But I found quite some info.
Apparently the resistor sizes are mostly 0201 and most resistors used are 30 ohms and I think 100 kOhms.
Still looking for the right capacitor sizes.
Zeus really isn't the most helpful. The Russian youtubers are quite good, too bad I don't really understand them... The auto caption is still far off...
But little by little I'm getting there.
Right sizes and model resistors and capacitors for hashboards
Hey guys,
Any fellow technicians here have an idea what range of surface mount capacitors and resistors to order for repairing hashboards?
I see a lot of different sizes. But they are to small to measure myself obviously. So it would be helpful if anyone would throw in what kit or ranges to buy so it would cover pretty much most of the S17 model hashboards.
Or just throw in a link and I'll look for it in local shops myself.
Thank you!
Any fellow technicians here have an idea what range of surface mount capacitors and resistors to order for repairing hashboards?
I see a lot of different sizes. But they are to small to measure myself obviously. So it would be helpful if anyone would throw in what kit or ranges to buy so it would cover pretty much most of the S17 model hashboards.
Or just throw in a link and I'll look for it in local shops myself.
Thank you!
This is technical and it seems you don't have knowledge about repairing boards.
It's not measuring the voltage it's measuring resistance like the capacitors(The orange/brown color) for me with an analog multimeter I don't use exact Ohms if I see there is resistance on both polarity then I'm sure it's shorted but if you see no resistance then the capacitor is not shorted. Another thing to find those shorted parts in my own experienced is by injecting voltage and find what parts are hot.
In that case, you need to point the multimeter at the ground(The positive one) and the pins from 1,4, and 8(The negative one) to check if those MOS are shorted.
Without any knowledge about the basic repair, you will not understand the guide from ZeusBTC. You should learn the basic repair first
About your first question, since the image said downward then from the image, you need to start from 1 which is the first pin on the top left corner, and the 4th pin is on the top right corner then the 8th pin bottom right corner.
It's not measuring the voltage it's measuring resistance like the capacitors(The orange/brown color) for me with an analog multimeter I don't use exact Ohms if I see there is resistance on both polarity then I'm sure it's shorted but if you see no resistance then the capacitor is not shorted. Another thing to find those shorted parts in my own experienced is by injecting voltage and find what parts are hot.
In that case, you need to point the multimeter at the ground(The positive one) and the pins from 1,4, and 8(The negative one) to check if those MOS are shorted.
Without any knowledge about the basic repair, you will not understand the guide from ZeusBTC. You should learn the basic repair first
About your first question, since the image said downward then from the image, you need to start from 1 which is the first pin on the top left corner, and the 4th pin is on the top right corner then the 8th pin bottom right corner.
Oh I figured that out meanwhile. It's just because his explanation in English can get a bit confusing. He was talking about the output voltage and in the same sentence he said to measure the resistance. That's what confused me. His guide might use a better translation though, many confusing parts in the whole thing, but I'm managing to manouvre myself out of it. I just took a working hashboard, measured the whole thing out, and wrote the data down to compare to the malfunctioning boards. I'm getting there eventually
PS: I'm an industrial electrician, so the basic knowledge is more than present, just need to school myself a bit more in to electronics
Another example: In his guide, he talks about the PIC reprogramming. I have a hashboard here that showed 2.5V on the second pin. He said if it's not at around 3.3V, you should reprogram the PIC. I ordered me a PICkit 3.5, ordered the HEX files from ZEUS, I did everything step by step and reprogrammed the PIC, now I got it at 2.8V. So still no 3.3V. But in the guide, it stops there. What if the reprogramming doesn't do the thing? Should I replace the PIC? Or does it mean I need to look elswhere for the problem? It's not that the PIC doesn't show anything. So if the PIC was bad, it would probably show 0V or am I wrong?
This is technical and it seems you don't have knowledge about repairing boards.
It's not measuring the voltage it's measuring resistance like the capacitors(The orange/brown color) for me with an analog multimeter I don't use exact Ohms if I see there is resistance on both polarity then I'm sure it's shorted but if you see no resistance then the capacitor is not shorted. Another thing to find those shorted parts in my own experienced is by injecting voltage and find what parts are hot.
In that case, you need to point the multimeter at the ground(The positive one) and the pins from 1,4, and 8(The negative one) to check if those MOS are shorted.
Without any knowledge about the basic repair, you will not understand the guide from ZeusBTC. You should learn the basic repair first
About your first question, since the image said downward then from the image, you need to start from 1 which is the first pin on the top left corner, and the 4th pin is on the top right corner then the 8th pin bottom right corner.
It's not measuring the voltage it's measuring resistance like the capacitors(The orange/brown color) for me with an analog multimeter I don't use exact Ohms if I see there is resistance on both polarity then I'm sure it's shorted but if you see no resistance then the capacitor is not shorted. Another thing to find those shorted parts in my own experienced is by injecting voltage and find what parts are hot.
In that case, you need to point the multimeter at the ground(The positive one) and the pins from 1,4, and 8(The negative one) to check if those MOS are shorted.
Without any knowledge about the basic repair, you will not understand the guide from ZeusBTC. You should learn the basic repair first
About your first question, since the image said downward then from the image, you need to start from 1 which is the first pin on the top left corner, and the 4th pin is on the top right corner then the 8th pin bottom right corner.
Oh I figured that out meanwhile. It's just because his explanation in English can get a bit confusing. He was talking about the output voltage and in the same sentence he said to measure the resistance. That's what confused me. His guide might use a better translation though, many confusing parts in the whole thing, but I'm managing to manouvre myself out of it. I just took a working hashboard, measured the whole thing out, and wrote the data down to compare to the malfunctioning boards. I'm getting there eventually
PS: I'm an industrial electrician, just need to school myself a bit more in to electronics
Like for example on ZEUS's explanation in the picture below. He talks about measuring the resistance between pins 1,4 and 8.
First question: which ones are the pins 1, 4 and 8 exactly?
Second question: Measuring the resistance? Or does he mean measuring the Voltage? If not, what should the resistance be exactly in Ohms?
First question: which ones are the pins 1, 4 and 8 exactly?
Second question: Measuring the resistance? Or does he mean measuring the Voltage? If not, what should the resistance be exactly in Ohms?
How does the I2C analyzer work exactly? What does it do?
I never heard of this tool but it looks like a tool that could use for testing and reading a logic board or it's more likely a debugging tool the same as what test fixtures do.
I would suggest you search it on youtube to see how it works.
I've been doing nothing but youtubing
The thing is, many of these tools are explained for different applications other than asic mining.
It's quite confusing. The measures are much different and it's much more helpful to get the info from technicians who are familiar with mining gear.
There is very little information online when it comes to asic repair. So my best guess is to get help here
Hello guys,
I've recently digging in to repairing my S17+ hashboards that piled up here.
What are all the possible causes for the famous 0 asic found issues other than bad chips? And I mean on the hashboard itself. Not the control boards, or psu related issues as I'm using a dc power supply and asic test fixture to test these hashboards.
Thanks!
I've recently digging in to repairing my S17+ hashboards that piled up here.
What are all the possible causes for the famous 0 asic found issues other than bad chips? And I mean on the hashboard itself. Not the control boards, or psu related issues as I'm using a dc power supply and asic test fixture to test these hashboards.
Thanks!
Hello
I have a bunch of S17+ hashboards piled up for repair and I've been keeping busy with figuring out as much as I can. Sadly for technicians that like to do everything themselves like me, there is not much detailed info out there on this issue. Most info I found were in Russian or some other foreign language I couldn't understand.
So to repair my hashboards I'm left with a few questions I hope you guys can help me out.
I'm an electrician myself and I have quite some tools in my workshop so that's not really an issue.
1) Until now I used the black bitmain glue to stick the heatsinks back on, but I found that the chips with the glue got hotter. Now I would like to try using soldering
tin to fix the heatsinks back on the chips. Can anyone tell me exactly what tin I need to buy?
2) How do you guys figure out which chip exactly is malfunctioning? I got a voltmeter, I got the Zeus test fixture (but in an earlier topic a few people told me that
test fixture is practically useless as it keeps turning off the hashboard). Is it possible to measure the malfunctioning chip by resistance? If so, does someone
know what resistance in Ohm every measuring point needs to be approximately? Or is the only way to measure by voltage and powering on the hashboard?
3) I also see a lot of Temperature sensor errors. But sadly can't find a lot of info about how to measure it. How can I measure the temperature sensors?
4) I often use my Supersonic bath to clean the hashboards, as I find a lot of times the chip legs rusted and bridged together, this way helps a lot to get
them nice and clean, but the heatsinks usually fall off when I do that. Does anyone know if they sell a heatsink template for hashboards so we could glue/solder
the heatsinks much faster on the hashboard? Been looking all over google, but can't find anything. I'm thinking of buying an aluminum 3d printer just to make
that now...
Thank you guys for responding!
I have a bunch of S17+ hashboards piled up for repair and I've been keeping busy with figuring out as much as I can. Sadly for technicians that like to do everything themselves like me, there is not much detailed info out there on this issue. Most info I found were in Russian or some other foreign language I couldn't understand.
So to repair my hashboards I'm left with a few questions I hope you guys can help me out.
I'm an electrician myself and I have quite some tools in my workshop so that's not really an issue.
1) Until now I used the black bitmain glue to stick the heatsinks back on, but I found that the chips with the glue got hotter. Now I would like to try using soldering
tin to fix the heatsinks back on the chips. Can anyone tell me exactly what tin I need to buy?
2) How do you guys figure out which chip exactly is malfunctioning? I got a voltmeter, I got the Zeus test fixture (but in an earlier topic a few people told me that
test fixture is practically useless as it keeps turning off the hashboard). Is it possible to measure the malfunctioning chip by resistance? If so, does someone
know what resistance in Ohm every measuring point needs to be approximately? Or is the only way to measure by voltage and powering on the hashboard?
3) I also see a lot of Temperature sensor errors. But sadly can't find a lot of info about how to measure it. How can I measure the temperature sensors?
4) I often use my Supersonic bath to clean the hashboards, as I find a lot of times the chip legs rusted and bridged together, this way helps a lot to get
them nice and clean, but the heatsinks usually fall off when I do that. Does anyone know if they sell a heatsink template for hashboards so we could glue/solder
the heatsinks much faster on the hashboard? Been looking all over google, but can't find anything. I'm thinking of buying an aluminum 3d printer just to make
that now...
Thank you guys for responding!
Hello,
1. You need low solder paste. for example Bismuthum+Sn (Sn42Bi58).
2. You need very,very,very good bench multimeter, best to use is the 4-wire method or you can buy somewhere miliohm meter. I use keithley 2000 .
you can measure resistance between chip 1,8Volts, is it best method for found cold solders for me, but you need very good multimeter/miliohm meter.
3. You can use I2C analyzer, or change sensor and asic chip which is connected to the sensor.
4. Be careful with supersonic bath, tin is very fragile because bitmain use low solder paste. You can make more cold connections between chip and board.
I use PCB cleaner and little antistatic brush
M.
I'm sorry I just noticed there were comments on my topic.
Thank you for the expanded explanation.
How does the I2C analyzer work exactly? What does it do?
That's just standard warning Zeus is putting up so no one would sue him for anything going wrong afterwards.
Well, then why don't they put this warning for other mining gears that use separate PSUs if the purpose is what you claim? I don't know what to believe since I have not tried any of that, but my guess is that the warning isn't a random one, also I just noticed that the tool you are using is not the standard bitmain fixture that folks like Zeusbtc and other sellers on Alibaba sell, you are using the Russian version asic.repair which is a whole different tool, so maybe different tools - different setups.
I first bought the ZEUS one. Isn't the original bitmain fixture neither. It was useless to me for my S17+ hashboards. you only had a few seconds per chip to test it. Then you had to push the reset button each time and wait another few minutes to reboot. Literally just a piece of crap. The Russian one bypasses all that crap, and doesn't let the hashboard hash, so it wouldn't burn your chips. It's also way more expensive, but worth every penny. I did the tests on both hands on. The russian setup is by far better.
Ok for those interested. Indeed I ordered myself a dc power supply. Now the thing works flawless. So from the s17 series beyond, you'll need a dc power supply. Original psu won't do it.
Not sure where you bough the tool from, but on Zesbtc they have a huge warning that says:
Quote
Notice:
If you test a combined mining machine (a mining machine with its own power supply), you must use the power supply that comes with the mining machine to power the test fixture and the Hash board. It is forbidden to use any third-party or adjustable power supply! Otherwise, it may cause equipment failure!
If you test a combined mining machine (a mining machine with its own power supply), you must use the power supply that comes with the mining machine to power the test fixture and the Hash board. It is forbidden to use any third-party or adjustable power supply! Otherwise, it may cause equipment failure!
Source: https://www.zeusbtc.com/ASIC-Miner-Repair/Parts-Tools-Details.asp?ID=212
You said you have S17+ which is a "combined mining machine", so you might be careful when using an external PSU, as for instruction, zeusbtc has a truckload of pdf files, search around and you will find the manual for the fixture tool. Good luck
That's just standard warning Zeus is putting up so no one would sue him for anything going wrong afterwards. The Asic.repair kit suggests everything from the S17 series and beyond to use an adjustable DC power supply. I just tested a bunch of my hashboards. Did the job perfectly. Very easy and saves LOADS of time. The thing cost me a lot but was worth every penny. You do need at least some basic knowledge about electronics tho. But then again, doesn't matter which test fixture you buy, as soon as you wanna start repairing these hashboards, you need some basics before starting. So yeah, I'm gonna keep you guys updated on how this goes...
Ok for those interested. Indeed I ordered myself a dc power supply. Now the thing works flawless. So from the s17 series beyond, you'll need a dc power supply. Original psu won't do it.
I take it the test fixture did not come with any instructions 
I would think that whoever you bought it from should give you that information...
I would think that whoever you bought it from should give you that information...
Welcome to the world of asic repairing... Instructions are a luxury.
Hey guys,
I just got my test fixture in today from Asic Repair Center in Russia.
Now what's the best way to set everything up for S17+ hashboard chip testing?
Right now I got just an original empty S17+ rig with the psu and controlboard powering my hashboard, but it doesn't seem to give anything more than about 1.3V to my hashboard...
Is it better to just order me a DC adjustable powersupply and power my hashboard with that?
Or is the original psu needed for decent testing?
Do I need to cool off my hashboards with this specific test fixture? I heard it didn't need any cooling as it doesn't let the hashboard hash.
Thanks for the aid!
I just got my test fixture in today from Asic Repair Center in Russia.
Now what's the best way to set everything up for S17+ hashboard chip testing?
Right now I got just an original empty S17+ rig with the psu and controlboard powering my hashboard, but it doesn't seem to give anything more than about 1.3V to my hashboard...
Is it better to just order me a DC adjustable powersupply and power my hashboard with that?
Or is the original psu needed for decent testing?
Do I need to cool off my hashboards with this specific test fixture? I heard it didn't need any cooling as it doesn't let the hashboard hash.
Thanks for the aid!
Hello
I have a bunch of S17+ hashboards piled up for repair and I've been keeping busy with figuring out as much as I can. Sadly for technicians that like to do everything themselves like me, there is not much detailed info out there on this issue. Most info I found were in Russian or some other foreign language I couldn't understand.
So to repair my hashboards I'm left with a few questions I hope you guys can help me out.
I'm an electrician myself and I have quite some tools in my workshop so that's not really an issue.
1) Until now I used the black bitmain glue to stick the heatsinks back on, but I found that the chips with the glue got hotter. Now I would like to try using soldering
tin to fix the heatsinks back on the chips. Can anyone tell me exactly what tin I need to buy?
2) How do you guys figure out which chip exactly is malfunctioning? I got a voltmeter, I got the Zeus test fixture (but in an earlier topic a few people told me that
test fixture is practically useless as it keeps turning off the hashboard). Is it possible to measure the malfunctioning chip by resistance? If so, does someone
know what resistance in Ohm every leg needs to be approximately? Or is the only way to measure by voltage and powering on the hashboard?
3) I also see a lot of Temperature sensor errors. But sadly can't find a lot of info about how to measure it. How can I measure the temperature sensors?
4) I often use my Supersonic bath to clean the hashboards, as I find a lot of times the chip legs rusted and connected to eachother, this way helps a lot to get
them nice and clean, but the heatsinks usually fall off when I do that. Does anyone know if they sell a heatsink template for hashboards so we could glue/solder
the heatsinks much faster on the hashboard? Been looking all over google, but can't find anything. I'm thinking of buying an aluminum 3d printer just to make
that now...
Thank you guys for responding!
I have a bunch of S17+ hashboards piled up for repair and I've been keeping busy with figuring out as much as I can. Sadly for technicians that like to do everything themselves like me, there is not much detailed info out there on this issue. Most info I found were in Russian or some other foreign language I couldn't understand.
So to repair my hashboards I'm left with a few questions I hope you guys can help me out.
I'm an electrician myself and I have quite some tools in my workshop so that's not really an issue.
1) Until now I used the black bitmain glue to stick the heatsinks back on, but I found that the chips with the glue got hotter. Now I would like to try using soldering
tin to fix the heatsinks back on the chips. Can anyone tell me exactly what tin I need to buy?
2) How do you guys figure out which chip exactly is malfunctioning? I got a voltmeter, I got the Zeus test fixture (but in an earlier topic a few people told me that
test fixture is practically useless as it keeps turning off the hashboard). Is it possible to measure the malfunctioning chip by resistance? If so, does someone
know what resistance in Ohm every leg needs to be approximately? Or is the only way to measure by voltage and powering on the hashboard?
3) I also see a lot of Temperature sensor errors. But sadly can't find a lot of info about how to measure it. How can I measure the temperature sensors?
4) I often use my Supersonic bath to clean the hashboards, as I find a lot of times the chip legs rusted and connected to eachother, this way helps a lot to get
them nice and clean, but the heatsinks usually fall off when I do that. Does anyone know if they sell a heatsink template for hashboards so we could glue/solder
the heatsinks much faster on the hashboard? Been looking all over google, but can't find anything. I'm thinking of buying an aluminum 3d printer just to make
that now...
Thank you guys for responding!
Hello
I have a bunch of S17+ hashboards piled up for repair and I've been keeping busy with figuring out as much as I can. Sadly for technicians that like to do everything themselves like me, there is not much detailed info out there on this issue. Most info I found were in Russian or some other foreign language I couldn't understand.
So to repair my hashboards I'm left with a few questions I hope you guys can help me out.
I'm an electrician myself and I have quite some tools in my workshop so that's not really an issue.
1) Until now I used the black bitmain glue to stick the heatsinks back on, but I found that the chips with the glue got hotter. Now I would like to try using soldering
tin to fix the heatsinks back on the chips. Can anyone tell me exactly what tin I need to buy?
2) How do you guys figure out which chip exactly is malfunctioning? I got a voltmeter, I got the Zeus test fixture (but in an earlier topic a few people told me that test fixture is practically useless as it keeps turning off the hashboard). Is it possible to measure the malfunctioning chip by resistance? If so, does someone know what resistance in Ohm every leg needs to be approximately? Or is the only way to measure by voltage and powering on the hashboard?
3) I also see a lot of Temperature sensor errors. But sadly can't find a lot of info about how to measure it. How can I measure the temperature sensors?
4) I often use my Supersonic bath to clean the hashboards, as I find a lot of times the chip legs rusted and connected to eachother, this way helps a lot to get them nice and clean, but the heatsinks usually fall off when I do that. Does anyone know if they sell a heatsink template for hashboards so we could glue/solder the heatsinks much faster on the hashboard? Been looking all over google, but can't find anything. I'm thinking of buying an aluminum 3d printer just to make that now...
Thank you guys for responding!
I have a bunch of S17+ hashboards piled up for repair and I've been keeping busy with figuring out as much as I can. Sadly for technicians that like to do everything themselves like me, there is not much detailed info out there on this issue. Most info I found were in Russian or some other foreign language I couldn't understand.
So to repair my hashboards I'm left with a few questions I hope you guys can help me out.
I'm an electrician myself and I have quite some tools in my workshop so that's not really an issue.
1) Until now I used the black bitmain glue to stick the heatsinks back on, but I found that the chips with the glue got hotter. Now I would like to try using soldering
tin to fix the heatsinks back on the chips. Can anyone tell me exactly what tin I need to buy?
2) How do you guys figure out which chip exactly is malfunctioning? I got a voltmeter, I got the Zeus test fixture (but in an earlier topic a few people told me that test fixture is practically useless as it keeps turning off the hashboard). Is it possible to measure the malfunctioning chip by resistance? If so, does someone know what resistance in Ohm every leg needs to be approximately? Or is the only way to measure by voltage and powering on the hashboard?
3) I also see a lot of Temperature sensor errors. But sadly can't find a lot of info about how to measure it. How can I measure the temperature sensors?
4) I often use my Supersonic bath to clean the hashboards, as I find a lot of times the chip legs rusted and connected to eachother, this way helps a lot to get them nice and clean, but the heatsinks usually fall off when I do that. Does anyone know if they sell a heatsink template for hashboards so we could glue/solder the heatsinks much faster on the hashboard? Been looking all over google, but can't find anything. I'm thinking of buying an aluminum 3d printer just to make that now...
Thank you guys for responding!
No firmware will work if all chips are not found.
Yeah, the Bitmain style testers like the Zeus tester are painfully slow for troubleshooting. I started using the Asic.Repair tester (https://tester.asic.repair/en), which will run the count test in a loop indefinitely, giving you all the time you want to probe the test points.
Yeah, the Bitmain style testers like the Zeus tester are painfully slow for troubleshooting. I started using the Asic.Repair tester (https://tester.asic.repair/en), which will run the count test in a loop indefinitely, giving you all the time you want to probe the test points.
I saw those sell online. So these models do loop uninterrupted? I wasn't really sure so I doubted to buy one due to the higher price...
try braiins software via an sd card.
lower the freq to 50 and hit the board with a box fan airstream.
braiins has the option to drop freq to 50
and to set fans needed to zero.
lower the freq to 50 and hit the board with a box fan airstream.
braiins has the option to drop freq to 50
and to set fans needed to zero.
I have Asic.to. I think all the same options are on there too. So I set the asic.to software on the test fixture and let it run with the fans right?