Quote from: Mister_Fix on July 25, 2015, 09:57:41 AM

Hello everyone, i have been reading this thread from page 1 - 25 until my brains exploded, it's definetly awesome to read all of your progress but the stuff you do is way over my limit, i know basic electronics and i just got my G-Blade a few days ago.
So at stock 600 MHz it mines at a puny 3.2 MH/s (WTF?? why??)
When overcloking to 838 MHz one blade works at a fairly low amount of H/W errors but the second one gets quite a lot of them, so i underclocked it a little to 825 MHz to make it happy, but anyway back to topic, i wanted to get the most i possible could out of my blade by replacing that lame power jack with a screw terminal (or just fuckin' soldering wires directly to the blades) and i also want to add heatsinks to all of the overheating part, my question is, that if i do all of that, will that make my miner a little more stable with less hardware errors? and also, i might just do the simple version of J4bberwock's voltage mod (just the 39k resistor) but the problem is that i definetly don't have the right equiptment or the money for the right equipment to do SMD soldering, so do you think a thru-hole 39k 5% tolorance resistor will work?
Also, at some point i overread that @J4bberwock connects his miners to the 6 pin PCIe connectors of a high quality ATX PSU, and after a simple google search it seems like EVERYONE connects their miners to the PCIe connector, is there a specific reason why?
Sorry for bombarding with questions, i'm really anxious to know what i can do!!
(The amount of times i edited this post is too damn high!!!)

Ok here some answers from LSE again :-)

if you have a normal C2 solder iron tip you can do most of the work just fine :-)
Look at my shop on http://www.LSE.solar and just over the SILVER kit :

Gridseed Blade tuning kit (silver)

This tuning kit is for a Gridseed Blade 80 Chip system. It includes as follow :

(2) 2 Terminal
(2) 39Kohm resistor
(2) Capacitor Aluminum 220UF 35V 20% SMD
(1) 1mm drillbit
(4) 10*10*5mm Aluminium Heatsink with Thermal Pad
(2) 8*8*5mm Aluminium Heatsink with Thermal Pad

Those parts will get you to where you wana be :-) if you put your solder iron to work and heat up the SMD itself it will melt both solder ends and you can lift it easy of the Circuit board, same way you can apply the new SMD resistor :-). Sounds crappy but does work with those simple SMD resistors just fine.
The CAP is also easy to do. Just pull it twisting of the board and than apply with the Solder iron heat to the Pin's to remove those.
If you need some nice heat resistant solder I can put that into the envelop too :-) . Once the CAP is removed you put the new one in place and just apply to the end tips some solder while holding it down to the board. And done it that job.

Last remove the cheap Terminal...... Once removed you use the Terminal and hold it to the 12V+ which is the closest PIN to the 3 ferrite beads in black. in the middle of that you drill with the drillbit the first hole. than you mark up the 2nd. And drill there.

IMPORTANT : DO NOT drill the first one else where than right in the middle of the 12V slit. Otherwise you can shorten the circuits because you touch ground which is just 2mm away from the 12V+ ....... my 2 sence .. POOR DESIGN :-(

After that you just apply those 2 heat sinks on the MOSSFETS and done :-)

Also nice tip apply a strip of normal black electrotape to reduce the Airflow towards the back exit so it's forced down more to the PCB Board to cool it on the backside.

Does the error rate will be lower ... NOT IF YOU DO NOT USE THE CORRECT FREQUENCY :-)

Do only jump in 25khz jumps. So like 800,825,850,875,900..... and so on.

900 should be best option, maybe 925. Without with the MOSSFET you can do 1025 stable.

I hope it helps.

Lumanet

Lumanet

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