Hi Nemercry,
There is just 1 (ONE) resistor to be solder...I called it Rmod =17K/16.9K...
It is to be soldered to the cut-off bridge pads of R46...1 cut...1 solder...that's it...simple...
The original resistor...Orange at position #1...You called "R52"... is in reality R139 = 33K...the last resistor in the chain of VID resistors ...the same one that you are replacing...This one is just STAYING in place...untouched...NO un-soldering needed... simple "work?.. no thanks"...
You are completely correct as of doing 2 bridges...marked "Yellow" to "undo" the R139/"R52" mod and to shift the Voltage reference back to resistor in the "green" position...=36K...
I am doing reversal of the Rmod in R46 position by simply shorting back R46 pads...even with Rmod in it...So effectively we back to R139/"R52" value = 33K...ORIGINAL stock value...schematics...performance...etc...
I hope it is clear now...
Regards, buddy...
There is just 1 (ONE) resistor to be solder...I called it Rmod =17K/16.9K...
It is to be soldered to the cut-off bridge pads of R46...1 cut...1 solder...that's it...simple...
The original resistor...Orange at position #1...You called "R52"... is in reality R139 = 33K...the last resistor in the chain of VID resistors ...the same one that you are replacing...This one is just STAYING in place...untouched...NO un-soldering needed... simple "work?.. no thanks"...
You are completely correct as of doing 2 bridges...marked "Yellow" to "undo" the R139/"R52" mod and to shift the Voltage reference back to resistor in the "green" position...=36K...
I am doing reversal of the Rmod in R46 position by simply shorting back R46 pads...even with Rmod in it...So effectively we back to R139/"R52" value = 33K...ORIGINAL stock value...schematics...performance...etc...
I hope it is clear now...
Regards, buddy...
Definitely more space to work in over by R46. I'd like to put a jumper and a resistor there but might not bother.
That's 1/4 watt resistor in the photo (wrong value). I could only find 1/2 watt locally today and I gave up trying to fit it in with a jumper. Thanks for the "rollback" info Nemercry & ZiG - that gives more options should it ever be needed.
I was having a bit of trouble soldering over at R46. For some reason I could not get the solder to bond well on the inner point. It would break free easily. No problem with the outer point. I gave up and re-bridged it. That was with the 1/2 watt resistor. I'll try again when I get the 1/4 watt resistors I ordered.
Hey Happydaze,
The trouble you are having is caused by the red layer on the top of the board...so called "Solder protective mask" ...it is preventing the solder to stick to the surface of the board except to the designated for soldering actual components/parts...
Because R46 is just a bridge of copper trace between 2 pads...without actual component present...they cover the whole area with this red mask...including pads and the bridge ...
So, you need to SCRATCH the pads...VERY GENTLY...to remove the red top layer...and to uncover the THIN copper surface underneath...Be CAREFUL...no force...otherwise it is easy to remove the pad(s) itself...the same way as you remove the copper bridge in between...
After that...Use the flux and solder to try to cover the pads with nice small ball of solder...before actually soldering the new Rmod
Hope it'll solve your problem...
ZiG