Quote from: wolfey2014 on April 23, 2014, 02:56:05 AM

Quote from: ZiG on April 23, 2014, 02:23:58 AM

Quote from: happydaze on April 23, 2014, 01:23:33 AM

Quote from: ZiG on April 23, 2014, 12:35:37 AM

Hi Nemercry,

There is just 1 (ONE) resistor to be solder...I called it Rmod =17K/16.9K...

It is to be soldered to the cut-off bridge pads of R46...1 cut...1 solder...that's it...simple...

The original resistor...Orange at position #1...You called "R52"... is in reality R139 = 33K...the last resistor in the chain of VID resistors ...the same one that you are replacing...This one is just STAYING in place...untouched...NO un-soldering needed... simple "work?.. no thanks"... Grin

You are completely correct as of doing 2 bridges...marked "Yellow" to "undo" the R139/"R52" mod and to shift the Voltage reference back to resistor in the "green" position...=36K...

I am doing reversal of the Rmod in R46 position by simply shorting back R46 pads...even with Rmod in it...So effectively we back to R139/"R52" value = 33K...ORIGINAL stock value...schematics...performance...etc...

I hope it is clear now... Grin

Regards, buddy...

Definitely more space to work in over by R46. I'd like to put a jumper and a resistor there but might not bother.

That's 1/4 watt resistor in the photo (wrong value). I could only find 1/2 watt locally today and I gave up trying to fit it in with a jumper. Thanks for the "rollback" info Nemercry & ZiG - that gives more options should it ever be needed.

I was having a bit of trouble soldering over at R46. For some reason I could not get the solder to bond well on the inner point. It would break free easily. No problem with the outer point. I gave up and re-bridged it. That was with the 1/2 watt resistor. I'll try again when I get the 1/4 watt resistors I ordered.

Hey Happydaze,

The trouble you are having is caused by the red layer on the top of the board...so called "Solder protective mask" ...it is preventing the solder to stick to the surface of the board except to the designated for soldering actual components/parts...

Because R46 is just a bridge of copper trace between 2 pads...without actual component present...they cover the whole area with this red mask...including pads and the bridge ...

So, you need to SCRATCH the pads...VERY GENTLY...to remove the red top layer...and to uncover the THIN copper surface underneath...Be CAREFUL...no force...otherwise it is easy to remove the pad(s) itself...the same way as you remove the copper bridge in between...

After that...Use the flux and solder to try to cover the pads with nice small ball of solder...before actually soldering the new Rmod

Hope it'll solve your problem...

ZiG

If I'm understanding this mod correctly. Reversing it will still require the same amount of work to reverse as reversing the R52 mod.
One thing that is better about this mod though is that all one has to do is remove the 17K resistor to put it back to original specs.
I for one do not look forward to soldering those two bridges again! I was happy we did away with that. It's a real pain to do, even for a master of soldering.
If all I have to do is solder on a 17K resistor to those two points, I agree that is it a better option than removing 'r139' (aka r52) and soldering in a replacement resistor only to later have to remove it then solder back in that tiny SMD resistor.
Still, why has no one yet figured out how to overclock SHA mode? Will any other value resistors allow this? A happy medium between SHA and Scrypt overclocking? I mean, it would be great to be able to overclock dual mode if the need ever arises.
The best thing to do is add a SPDT switch for MOD IN - MOD OUT.
I believe someone else envisioned this option a while back.

Has anyone tried a 20K pot across R46 as suggested by ZiG? this would make it very easy to switch from stock to overclock and back again.