Quote from: mixdio on April 28, 2014, 05:21:47 AM

Quote from: wolfey2014 on April 28, 2014, 05:00:40 AM

Wow! That sucks! No one has EVER had this trouble like that with the R52 mod! No One! Not even green-horns!
Shit!This really bugs me! I feel for your loss! 4 good chips ruined by yet another Zig DOH!!! pod killer mod! Are you absolutely sure un-bridging and adding a resistive load to R42 is correct, Zig? Never mind. I strongly suspect - NOT! This clicking problem only started happening after Zig's mod was introduced!
I think that Zig's mod should be killed for now, at least until the actual cause of the clicking which most likely means something permanently serious has happened and your pod is now a paper weight, is discovered. Looks like I have my work cut out for me. Thanks Zig!
Remember, R52 (aka R139-at least he got that right) mod is proven by thousands of mods to work without harming your pod, even if you make a mistake, the worst that happens is your pod stops working until the solder connections are re-done correctly or the mod is reversed. No permanent destruction! Certainly no solder melting hot chips destruction occurs! I think this makes 4 clicking pods now....That's just too many fried pods! DANGER!
Stick with R52 mod. And again, the chances of our pods ever profitably mining SHA again are slim to none and IF the mod ever has to be reversed, it can be done easily by any qualified tech. Even greenhorns can do it in a reasonable amount of time, obviously!

My devices have been running stable for over a month with R46 = 14k7.

Zig's mod looks to be the same mod I posted back on page 22. The schematic clearly shows R46 in series with the other SET resistors, and the mod should not cause any more problems than replacing R63/R64/R66/R139.

Finally somebody here, competent to verify independently what I was posting in that thread...with clear understanding of (Gridseed ) electronics, schematics etc...

Thanks Mixdio...!

I recall now seeing your post back in March...I took a different path since the beginning...March 13 ...using trim pot to R46 to explore smoothly the DVDD voltage increase and it's effect on the overclocking performance and hashing ...Now I see also that you have been playing with VPLL...me too... and can tell that VPPL has a very positive effect on the stability and performance potential of the device...( reference google CPU PLL ...)

Back to the problem...everything is pointing to C35...the capacitor next to R46 pads...It is connected to the pin "SS" of the uP1509 - "buck convertor" / Voltage chip...I could NOT find any data or specs for this chip...but many other manufacturers have similar IC...like TI, Motorola, Panasonic etc...All of them are marking "SS" pin as "Soft Start" ...which means that it is responsible for a nice, Smooth, with NO transient transitions on the Power MOSFETs ...gradual rise of the voltage supplied to the rest of the circuitry...

C35 is connected to "SS" pin and is responsible for this function of the voltage regulator to start / function properly...IF YOU SHORT or DISCONNECT C35... in any way...the voltage regulator CAN NOT START "SOFT"...or smooth...or properly...and one could expect all kind of unwanted effects on the voltage output of the buck convertor...like clicking sound...maybe VR is trying to start...and couldn't...in cycle...I guess...

In both of these cases the guys reported that have been messy around C35...short or missing...or something in that matter...Sorry to hear that...

Anyway...I never had this problem so far...never have been messing with C35...and don't understand how C35 could be even touch in the process of cutting R46 bridge...there is enough space on the opposite side of C35 to use "Exacto knife"...cut gently the R46 bridge...and YOU ARE DONE...You don't need to solder anything to the pads of R46...or mess anymore in proximity with C35...

I already pointed that there is many other spots - a FULL ROW of pads to solder...with a lot of space around...PLUS a BIG GROUND PAD under them...

Again...to be able to modify / change /experiment with your electronic device(s)...a person have to...:

1. UNDERSTAND what needs to be done...and what he/she is doing...
2. Have KNOWLEDGE about the device...it's operation,... the process to be performed...and the desired/possible results...
3. TOOLS suitable to perform the job in satisfactory manner...
4. SKILLS to do it...
5. etc...

IF you are not sure that you have ALL of these above...simply DO NOT DO IT...DON"T EVEN TRY...because the results will NOT BE what you are trying ...and expecting to be...but the decision is completely up to you..

I am only trying to help...for free...on my time...but you are the one to actually do it...

Ask...research...learn first...and try later...it is NOT a rocket science...a relatively simple procedure...and one day there is a good chance to succeed...

Thanks for your time to read this...didn't anticipate to be that long...

ZiG