Quote from: davedj79 on August 10, 2014, 01:09:53 PM

Would really appreciate any advice, thanks all.

David

Their warranty suggests that they know their devices will fail.

One LED is "AC ok" the other is "DC ok" and they both have fault signalling. Perhaps the data sheet will help http://www.power-one.com/sites/power-one.com/files/documents/power/datasheet/bcd.00012_ai_pfe1100-12-054xa.pdf

There is a fuse internal to the PSU (per power-one data sheets) that is listed as non-user serviceable (because it is not externally exposed and they do not like mere mortals opening power supplies). That may have blown. To get at it pull the faulty PSU and take it to your workbench. Using a tiny flat bladed screwdriver (I used a thumbtack) gently pry the 3 tabs on each side so the top cover will come off. There is a single torx (smaller than a T10 I dont know its size and never removed it) screw you must also remove. You should then be able to identify and access the fuse (take pics if you do this!! identification of this fuse and its type and all would be great info for this thread).

I do not know if the fuse is soldered in or in some type of socket so you can easily replace it. I do not know what type of fuse it is either only that it exists.

The problem could be the connector board but I would think that less likely. These are sold separately and are a standard part. I do not know if maplin carries it but they might be able to get it, I also do not know of any other stores like that over there because that is the only one I went to while living in that part of the world. In the US Mouser and Digikey carry it and they do international shipping. I believe cointerrible uses part number SNP-OP-BOARD-01.

Hope this helps ... :/

EDIT:

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2) Switched PSU's and ruled out that problem as the good PSU then became the bad.

I missed this the first time. When you swapped the PSUs the problem remained in the top or bottom slot? It did not follow the PSU?

That would indicate that it might be the connector board and that everything I said above is probably wrong. Unfortunately its a $170 USD part to just try and see if it is the problem. Sad

If possible I would try and see if you see anything on the board that looks damaged. This is the board that the PSUs plug into that is inside the power "nook" on the right side of the miner as you face the front. If you see fried parts and cannot replace them yourself (most people cant do SMD work) you will likely have to get a new connector board.

If you dont see such a part then perhaps you need to hunt down the CD to talk to the board and get a USB cable. The software from power-one is windows based and lets you monitor the board and get some stats off it and other stuff. That may help you figure out what is wrong, whether its a dead CTA board or dead psu board.

But then you said this

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6) After swapping boards around we've worked out a board is at fault and as it was the primary board there was no mining. Now the machine is mining on one board so that is an improvement. Interestingly both PSU's need to be on or the unit won't stay online. If you don't power up or power down the 2nd it goes offline (can't access over LAN etc)

That leads me to believe that its not power related at all although the LED on the PSU indicates a AC or DC fault somewhere ...

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On the front of the machine it blinks on Miner 2 as mining.

miner 1 and miner 2 leds at the front are hardwired to the CTA board. If you look at the front edge of the board there is a connector on each that are literally just wired to that LED.

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12) We've tried resetting the boards, we've tried resetting the system etc. Firmware is 0.7.6, I tried to install 0.6.32 but it loads but doesn't downgrade.

It seems that way, the system loads the firmware, starts up and then installs the firmware while its mining. You gotta give it a minute or two more and it will restart again and run the downgraded version. I have gone both up and down on mine playing with which is best and it took me a while to figure out that is what it was doing.