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Hi everyone,
can someone please explain something to me.
If you look at the discussion above we seem to work on R17 but what about R20 ?
So I measured and found out those 2 are the 2 resistors which do run parallel. But when you replace both let's say with 1.8Kohm which should result in the same result like discussed above suddenly with the proper settings :
150 MhZ
0.65 V
it consume suddenly 900Watt of the wall. Anyone any explanation about this?
Thank you
Lumanet
R17 & R20 are not in parallel. R17 goes from the Buck Converter Output voltage to the VFB input. R20 goes from the VFB input to ground. R17 is the one to adjust or change.
Also remember you need to make the same change on the other 7 resistors on the other Buck Converters, then repeat for the second board.
Rich
Got it guys :-)
I just swapped out the R17 resistor and it's partners against 1Kohm 1% SMD resistors and now I am hashing like it should be :
Under 200Watt and over 300 Ghs with the rest of the settings from above :-)
THX all
Lumanet
Hi everyone,
can someone please explain something to me.
If you look at the discussion above we seem to work on R17 but what about R20 ?
So I measured and found out those 2 are the 2 resistors which do run parallel. But when you replace both let's say with 1.8Kohm which should result in the same result like discussed above suddenly with the proper settings :
150 MhZ
0.65 V
it consume suddenly 900Watt of the wall. Anyone any explanation about this?
Thank you
Lumanet
Data Center Quality 800Watt PSU + Breaker board for under $60 USD inc ship
Hey guys,
we from LSE done it again. Our new PSU Breaker boards fit now a real dual purpose.
1. 12V Rail :
2. 13.2 Volt Rail if you close both Jumpers JP01 & JP02 you have now a 12V Batterie charger which can charge even your Car Battery.
On top this PSU Breaker board is plug and play ready. So all you do it screw the included raisers into the PSU and now your PSU and Breaker board are at the same level plus the underlayment made out of thick plastic ensures you won't shorten a circuit when you put it on a metal shelf.
So come and check us out at http://LSE.Solar
we from LSE done it again. Our new PSU Breaker boards fit now a real dual purpose.
1. 12V Rail :
- 200-240V AC = 82A
- 110-120V AC = 69A
2. 13.2 Volt Rail if you close both Jumpers JP01 & JP02 you have now a 12V Batterie charger which can charge even your Car Battery.
On top this PSU Breaker board is plug and play ready. So all you do it screw the included raisers into the PSU and now your PSU and Breaker board are at the same level plus the underlayment made out of thick plastic ensures you won't shorten a circuit when you put it on a metal shelf.
So come and check us out at http://LSE.Solar
Re: Corsair 850TX PSU for $134 -- Will it support 3 5850's and a 5870?
STOP wasting your MONEY !!!!!
LSE.Solar done it again. We produced a PSU breaker board which will blow your mind.
We used a 800Watt Server Power Supply with a real 12V Rail delivering on 120V over 70AMP.
PSU + Beaker board = 59.99 USD
Yes you guys hear and read correct. So check us out at http://LSE.Solar
Confimed SCAM. He pulled out the Bitcoin's himself for sure and now try to scam again with auto enable for buying KHS.
Also you can no longer sell your KHs which is a high indicator that his wallets are emptied out.
So guys WATCH closely and when ever PULL OUT BTC !!!!
Also you can no longer sell your KHs which is a high indicator that his wallets are emptied out.
So guys WATCH closely and when ever PULL OUT BTC !!!!
Last post was made in May. Is anyone still using this thread or has everyone gone to a different one?
Thanks
Thanks
I think we still use it a bit :-)
Re: GRIDSEED G-BLADE Overclocking 7Mh/s, improvements and repair
Hello everyone, i have been reading this thread from page 1 - 25 until my brains exploded, it's definetly awesome to read all of your progress but the stuff you do is way over my limit, i know basic electronics and i just got my G-Blade a few days ago.
So at stock 600 MHz it mines at a puny 3.2 MH/s (WTF?? why??)
When overcloking to 838 MHz one blade works at a fairly low amount of H/W errors but the second one gets quite a lot of them, so i underclocked it a little to 825 MHz to make it happy, but anyway back to topic, i wanted to get the most i possible could out of my blade by replacing that lame power jack with a screw terminal (or just fuckin' soldering wires directly to the blades) and i also want to add heatsinks to all of the overheating part, my question is, that if i do all of that, will that make my miner a little more stable with less hardware errors? and also, i might just do the simple version of J4bberwock's voltage mod (just the 39k resistor) but the problem is that i definetly don't have the right equiptment or the money for the right equipment to do SMD soldering, so do you think a thru-hole 39k 5% tolorance resistor will work?
Also, at some point i overread that @J4bberwock connects his miners to the 6 pin PCIe connectors of a high quality ATX PSU, and after a simple google search it seems like EVERYONE connects their miners to the PCIe connector, is there a specific reason why?
Sorry for bombarding with questions, i'm really anxious to know what i can do!!
(The amount of times i edited this post is too damn high!!!)
So at stock 600 MHz it mines at a puny 3.2 MH/s (WTF?? why??)
When overcloking to 838 MHz one blade works at a fairly low amount of H/W errors but the second one gets quite a lot of them, so i underclocked it a little to 825 MHz to make it happy, but anyway back to topic, i wanted to get the most i possible could out of my blade by replacing that lame power jack with a screw terminal (or just fuckin' soldering wires directly to the blades) and i also want to add heatsinks to all of the overheating part, my question is, that if i do all of that, will that make my miner a little more stable with less hardware errors? and also, i might just do the simple version of J4bberwock's voltage mod (just the 39k resistor) but the problem is that i definetly don't have the right equiptment or the money for the right equipment to do SMD soldering, so do you think a thru-hole 39k 5% tolorance resistor will work?
Also, at some point i overread that @J4bberwock connects his miners to the 6 pin PCIe connectors of a high quality ATX PSU, and after a simple google search it seems like EVERYONE connects their miners to the PCIe connector, is there a specific reason why?
Sorry for bombarding with questions, i'm really anxious to know what i can do!!
(The amount of times i edited this post is too damn high!!!)
Ok here some answers from LSE again :-)
if you have a normal C2 solder iron tip you can do most of the work just fine :-)
Look at my shop on http://www.LSE.solar and just over the SILVER kit :
Gridseed Blade tuning kit (silver)
This tuning kit is for a Gridseed Blade 80 Chip system. It includes as follow :
(2) 2 Terminal
(2) 39Kohm resistor
(2) Capacitor Aluminum 220UF 35V 20% SMD
(1) 1mm drillbit
(4) 10*10*5mm Aluminium Heatsink with Thermal Pad
(2) 8*8*5mm Aluminium Heatsink with Thermal Pad
Those parts will get you to where you wana be :-) if you put your solder iron to work and heat up the SMD itself it will melt both solder ends and you can lift it easy of the Circuit board, same way you can apply the new SMD resistor :-). Sounds crappy but does work with those simple SMD resistors just fine.
The CAP is also easy to do. Just pull it twisting of the board and than apply with the Solder iron heat to the Pin's to remove those.
If you need some nice heat resistant solder I can put that into the envelop too :-) . Once the CAP is removed you put the new one in place and just apply to the end tips some solder while holding it down to the board. And done it that job.
Last remove the cheap Terminal...... Once removed you use the Terminal and hold it to the 12V+ which is the closest PIN to the 3 ferrite beads in black. in the middle of that you drill with the drillbit the first hole. than you mark up the 2nd. And drill there.
IMPORTANT : DO NOT drill the first one else where than right in the middle of the 12V slit. Otherwise you can shorten the circuits because you touch ground which is just 2mm away from the 12V+ ....... my 2 sence .. POOR DESIGN :-(
After that you just apply those 2 heat sinks on the MOSSFETS and done :-)
Also nice tip apply a strip of normal black electrotape to reduce the Airflow towards the back exit so it's forced down more to the PCB Board to cool it on the backside.
Does the error rate will be lower ... NOT IF YOU DO NOT USE THE CORRECT FREQUENCY :-)
Do only jump in 25khz jumps. So like 800,825,850,875,900..... and so on.
900 should be best option, maybe 925. Without with the MOSSFET you can do 1025 stable.
I hope it helps.
Lumanet
Re: GRIDSEED G-BLADE Overclocking 7Mh/s, improvements and repair
Sorry I had burned your party. But finding a PSU which has 2 real 12V Rails is like winning in Lotto.
http://www.use.com/images/s_2/Hantol_Silent_ATX_500W_Power_Supply_7522d24941723e028d9f_1.jpg
This 500Watt PSU for example only has a 16Amp rail. So one normal Gridseed miner already maxes it out :-( .
This feed focus on the heavy overclocking of those blades and that's why I call out to be very careful and do your math twice before you cause an fire. This is why I just recommend it to check twice. Also if you do your math just for LAB giggles 500Watt on pure 12V can only do 41AMP MAX but this is LAB condition. Most PSU's like the one above doesn't even get close to is. Also most PSU have a cheap cables which can't take a lot of load even the CE specs tell you differently, but that's a reason why MADE in CHINA is not MADE in USA or GERMANY. As I said earlier we did overclock with hardware mod's here which cause a much higher draw from the PSU so that's why I called it out just to be safe. Because the last thing you want is a house on Fire.
If you followed a bit my hardware mod's which do ramp Gridseeds for less than 10$ USD up from normal 600-800 up to close to 1100Hz. so you get a very nice and safe 3.3-3.6 MHz per Blade out without busting it's limit's all the way to the MAX.
Lumanet
Well then i guess i won the lottery, doing a simple route trace on that psu show 2 12 volt rails going to 2 seprate overcurrent protection circuits. Also worth mentioning this PSU isn't one of those scary PSUs that burn your motherboard after a month of use, its a mid-range PSU with very good component and PCB quality for its price.http://www.use.com/images/s_2/Hantol_Silent_ATX_500W_Power_Supply_7522d24941723e028d9f_1.jpg
This 500Watt PSU for example only has a 16Amp rail. So one normal Gridseed miner already maxes it out :-( .
This feed focus on the heavy overclocking of those blades and that's why I call out to be very careful and do your math twice before you cause an fire. This is why I just recommend it to check twice. Also if you do your math just for LAB giggles 500Watt on pure 12V can only do 41AMP MAX but this is LAB condition. Most PSU's like the one above doesn't even get close to is. Also most PSU have a cheap cables which can't take a lot of load even the CE specs tell you differently, but that's a reason why MADE in CHINA is not MADE in USA or GERMANY. As I said earlier we did overclock with hardware mod's here which cause a much higher draw from the PSU so that's why I called it out just to be safe. Because the last thing you want is a house on Fire.
If you followed a bit my hardware mod's which do ramp Gridseeds for less than 10$ USD up from normal 600-800 up to close to 1100Hz. so you get a very nice and safe 3.3-3.6 MHz per Blade out without busting it's limit's all the way to the MAX.
Lumanet
sure would be nice if you could share specs of the unit and price so others could benefit from it too.
THX
Lumanet
Re: GRIDSEED G-BLADE Overclocking 7Mh/s, improvements and repair
Sorry I had burned your party. But finding a PSU which has 2 real 12V Rails is like winning in Lotto.
http://www.use.com/images/s_2/Hantol_Silent_ATX_500W_Power_Supply_7522d24941723e028d9f_1.jpg
This 500Watt PSU for example only has a 16Amp rail. So one normal Gridseed miner already maxes it out :-( .
This feed focus on the heavy overclocking of those blades and that's why I call out to be very careful and do your math twice before you cause an fire. This is why I just recommend it to check twice. Also if you do your math just for LAB giggles 500Watt on pure 12V can only do 41AMP MAX but this is LAB condition. Most PSU's like the one above doesn't even get close to is. Also most PSU have a cheap cables which can't take a lot of load even the CE specs tell you differently, but that's a reason why MADE in CHINA is not MADE in USA or GERMANY. As I said earlier we did overclock with hardware mod's here which cause a much higher draw from the PSU so that's why I called it out just to be safe. Because the last thing you want is a house on Fire.
If you followed a bit my hardware mod's which do ramp Gridseeds for less than 10$ USD up from normal 600-800 up to close to 1100Hz. so you get a very nice and safe 3.3-3.6 MHz per Blade out without busting it's limit's all the way to the MAX.
Lumanet
http://www.use.com/images/s_2/Hantol_Silent_ATX_500W_Power_Supply_7522d24941723e028d9f_1.jpg
This 500Watt PSU for example only has a 16Amp rail. So one normal Gridseed miner already maxes it out :-( .
This feed focus on the heavy overclocking of those blades and that's why I call out to be very careful and do your math twice before you cause an fire. This is why I just recommend it to check twice. Also if you do your math just for LAB giggles 500Watt on pure 12V can only do 41AMP MAX but this is LAB condition. Most PSU's like the one above doesn't even get close to is. Also most PSU have a cheap cables which can't take a lot of load even the CE specs tell you differently, but that's a reason why MADE in CHINA is not MADE in USA or GERMANY. As I said earlier we did overclock with hardware mod's here which cause a much higher draw from the PSU so that's why I called it out just to be safe. Because the last thing you want is a house on Fire.
If you followed a bit my hardware mod's which do ramp Gridseeds for less than 10$ USD up from normal 600-800 up to close to 1100Hz. so you get a very nice and safe 3.3-3.6 MHz per Blade out without busting it's limit's all the way to the MAX.
Lumanet
Re: GRIDSEED G-BLADE Overclocking 7Mh/s, improvements and repair
ATX are CHEAP !!! So that's the main reason why. But if you do have a few of those like we do. We use our own produced PSU and breaker boards which allow you to hook up to 4units to 1 PSU + Breakerboard. If you want we can post photos too.
The 12V RAIL is the key. most PSU's have a low 12v RAIL if you want to run it 24/7 go and get a Server PSU those units are build for 24/7 operation.
We sell those also at http://www.LSE.Solar
Olaf
and yes please do show me some pics
Inside of the PSU so for example the ATX PSU the 12V Rail is accessed best over the 6pin or 8 pin connectors.
https://www.lumanetsolarenergy.com/image/cache/data/Lumanet/LSE-DPS-800BG-MC/Photo%20May%2003,%202%2012%2001%20PM-500x500.jpg
This is an example how we do run our Antminer S3 powered.
https://www.lumanetsolarenergy.com/image/cache/data/HP/DPS-800BG/3979233600_1325923819-500x500.jpg
The main thing you look for the on an PSU is the 12V RAIL. In Picture above I red marked it for you. As more AMP you have on your Rail as more security / safty you build in that your PSU won't burn up and cause a potential fire.
So a GridSeed Blade only uses 100Watt maybe 120-140Watt if extreme overclocked. The other thing Jabberwork can also confirm is the AMP draw over those thinner ATX Cables cause heat on the Cable so as more you use in parallel as less heat you have on the cable. This is one reason why I highly recommend to go full on 14G-12G 120V Cable with solid copper core like shown in the picture. Those cables can take a BIG Load without producing the heat because they are solid copper. Also an very important factor which nobody tells you here is HEAT means you loose energy and efficiency. Not much but it ends up if you do run it like we do in Data Center settings.
So do your math :
12V and 100Watt = 8.33 AMP
Yes you see it right one Gridseed Blade alone draws on DC Volt over 8 Amp. So we normally do have up to 4 units on 1 PSU so 32AMP is been drawn. And 70Amp can be handled. If you want to operate like a Data Center meaning 24h a day on your mining rigs than go this route so you don't burn down your house. Always leave 20-30% room on the 12V Rail otherwise you burn out those PSU's and you have to buy another one.
Here is a Setup I do have for long term testing in my Garage (original unmodded units):
https://www.lumanetsolarenergy.com/image/cache/data/Gridseed/Photo%20Jul%2025,%2012%2025%2041%20PM-500x500.jpg
https://www.lumanetsolarenergy.com/image/cache/data/Gridseed/Photo%20Jul%2025,%2012%2025%2058%20PM-500x500.jpg
Re: GRIDSEED G-BLADE Overclocking 7Mh/s, improvements and repair
Hello everyone, i have been reading this thread from page 1 - 25 until my head exploded, it's definetly awesome to read all of your progress but the stuff you do is way over my limit, i know basic electronics and i just got my G-Blade a few days ago.
At stock 600 MHz it mines at a puny 3.2 MH/s (WTF??)
When overcloking to 838 MHz one blade works at a fairly low amount of H/W errors but the second one gets quite a lot of them, so i underclocked it a little to 800 MHz to make it happy, but anyway back to topic, i wanted to get the most i possible could out of my blade by replacing that lame power jack with a screw terminal (or just fuckin' soldering wires directly to the blade) and i also want to add heatsinks to all of the overheating part, my question is, that if i do all of that, will that make my miner a little more stable with less hardware errors? and also, i might just do the simple version of J4bberwock's voltage mod (just the 39k resistor) but the problem is that i definetly have the right equiptment or the money for the right equipment to do SMD soldering, so do you think a thru-hole 39k resistor will work?
Also, at some point i overread that @J4bberwock connects his miners to the 6 pin PCIe connectors on a high quality ATX PSU, and after a simple google search it seems like EVERYONE does that, is there a specific reason why?
Sorry for bombarding with questions, i'm really anxious to know what i can do!!
At stock 600 MHz it mines at a puny 3.2 MH/s (WTF??)
When overcloking to 838 MHz one blade works at a fairly low amount of H/W errors but the second one gets quite a lot of them, so i underclocked it a little to 800 MHz to make it happy, but anyway back to topic, i wanted to get the most i possible could out of my blade by replacing that lame power jack with a screw terminal (or just fuckin' soldering wires directly to the blade) and i also want to add heatsinks to all of the overheating part, my question is, that if i do all of that, will that make my miner a little more stable with less hardware errors? and also, i might just do the simple version of J4bberwock's voltage mod (just the 39k resistor) but the problem is that i definetly have the right equiptment or the money for the right equipment to do SMD soldering, so do you think a thru-hole 39k resistor will work?
Also, at some point i overread that @J4bberwock connects his miners to the 6 pin PCIe connectors on a high quality ATX PSU, and after a simple google search it seems like EVERYONE does that, is there a specific reason why?
Sorry for bombarding with questions, i'm really anxious to know what i can do!!
ATX are CHEAP !!! So that's the main reason why. But if you do have a few of those like we do. We use our own produced PSU and breaker boards which allow you to hook up to 4units to 1 PSU + Breakerboard. If you want we can post photos too.
The 12V RAIL is the key. most PSU's have a low 12v RAIL if you want to run it 24/7 go and get a Server PSU those units are build for 24/7 operation.
We sell those also at http://www.LSE.Solar
Olaf
Re: GRIDSEED G-BLADE Overclocking 7Mh/s, improvements and repair
Hello everyone, i have been reading this thread from page 1 - 25 until my head exploded, it's definetly awesome to read all of your progress but the stuff you do is way over my limit, i know basic electronics and i just got my G-Blade a few days ago.
At stock 600 MHz it mines at a puny 3.2 MH/s (WTF??)
When overcloking to 838 MHz one blade works at a fairly low amount of H/W errors but the second one gets quite a lot of them, so i underclocked it a little to 800 MHz to make it happy, but anyway back to topic, i wanted to get the most i possible could out of my blade by replacing that lame power jack with a screw terminal (or just fuckin' soldering wires directly to the blade) and i also want to add heatsinks to all of the overheating part, my question is, that if i do all of that, will that make my miner a little more stable with less hardware errors? and also, i might just do the simple version of J4bberwock's voltage mod (just the 39k resistor) but the problem is that i definetly have the right equiptment or the money for the right equipment to do SMD soldering, so do you think a thru-hole 39k resistor will work?
Also, at some point i overread that @J4bberwock connects his miners to the 6 pin PCIe connectors on a high quality ATX PSU, and after a simple google search it seems like EVERYONE does that, is there a specific reason why?
Sorry for bombarding with questions, i'm really anxious to know what i can do!!
At stock 600 MHz it mines at a puny 3.2 MH/s (WTF??)
When overcloking to 838 MHz one blade works at a fairly low amount of H/W errors but the second one gets quite a lot of them, so i underclocked it a little to 800 MHz to make it happy, but anyway back to topic, i wanted to get the most i possible could out of my blade by replacing that lame power jack with a screw terminal (or just fuckin' soldering wires directly to the blade) and i also want to add heatsinks to all of the overheating part, my question is, that if i do all of that, will that make my miner a little more stable with less hardware errors? and also, i might just do the simple version of J4bberwock's voltage mod (just the 39k resistor) but the problem is that i definetly have the right equiptment or the money for the right equipment to do SMD soldering, so do you think a thru-hole 39k resistor will work?
Also, at some point i overread that @J4bberwock connects his miners to the 6 pin PCIe connectors on a high quality ATX PSU, and after a simple google search it seems like EVERYONE does that, is there a specific reason why?
Sorry for bombarding with questions, i'm really anxious to know what i can do!!
Morning ,
my name is Olaf Becker and I am the owner of LSE.Solar. So first of all if you do have a thin soldering iron you can do this work all by yourself.
2nd of all if you want all the parts please reach out to us. We do sell those in set's I will post those parts you need onto our Shop and you can buy those from us without missing a single peace :-)
Also if you do have a Dremel we can show you with a think drillbit how to replace this cheap jack with srew down Terminal like I shown above in pictures. Importance there is you drill exact otherwise you can shorten the circuits.
http://www.LSE.Solar
regards
Olaf
We just ordered from a new Taiwan Manufacturer a full roll of 300ohm Ferrite Beads.
So who needs to repairs his own and knows how to solder please check us out at :
https://www.lumanetsolarenergy.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=81_85&product_id=122
Min order are 10. So you going to have some spare :-)
Hi Guys,
let me know what is going on. We do repair Gridseeds 5 Chip and also Blades. We do have all the parts and can share details if you just need details.
While you also do have them already apart I suggest you do a little modding :-).
regards
Olaf
LSE LLC
let me know what is going on. We do repair Gridseeds 5 Chip and also Blades. We do have all the parts and can share details if you just need details.
While you also do have them already apart I suggest you do a little modding :-).
regards
Olaf
LSE LLC
Maybe this is why I do own and operate a Data Center with my own mining rigs.
We pay 25 USD per Gridseed Blade and making per unit around $1 currently per day in profit after electric costs. Try to beat that.
One thing you have to learn is upfront Investment with ROI if you don't do this right you pay out of your own pocket.
We pay 25 USD per Gridseed Blade and making per unit around $1 currently per day in profit after electric costs. Try to beat that.
One thing you have to learn is upfront Investment with ROI if you don't do this right you pay out of your own pocket.
All I can say is ,,, JUNK! Why is anyone wasting their time on these way under performing stable overclocking wannabe not so well thought out or engineered rush to market quick made crap by GrimeSeed? Magic Black Smoke makers! POOF!
I loved the 5 chippers. Had a ton of them, very stable little things. But the blades were made to run at their recommended speed for a reason! Because they are generally not stable at all when overclocked! I mean, look at the mess of junk you have to throw on them just to keep them from going in to melt down in the first place...
If you can get your money back because the seller mus-represented it as stable, do so.
Then don't waste any more time or money on GS Blades. Try the Zeus miners. Much more bang for the buck and very stable machines, at least the ones that were made and wired right in the first place when they were brand new!
If you are really in to experimenting when them, then go for it. But I think you're wasting your time.
Good luck!
[/quote]
Zeus
Really ?? We got stable 400 units of Gridseed 6 MHz tuned as shown. And each unit consume less than 100 Watt.Zeus is history and Gridseed is still kicking. SFards.com if you don't believe it check it out.
Hi, I bought a Blade which is modified with 35v 220uf capacitor, 43k ohm resistor 0.1 +/-, 2 custom heat sinks attached on the rear of each power board, passive heatsinks on the all Mosfets and chokes.
I'm using a 750w PSU to power it as well as 2 stock unmodified Gridseed blades. I only had it running for a couple hours when the PSU shut down. I looked at the modified blade and there are scorch marks between the Barrel connector and USB port, the chip that visibly appears to be fried is the one between the USB and Barrel port labelled AFR26.
Pics of the blades below:
http://i59.tinypic.com/50i9dz.jpg
http://i60.tinypic.com/10f6ip5.jpg
http://i59.tinypic.com/2udxgcp.jpg
http://i58.tinypic.com/212sq68.jpg
As the mosfets and chokes, etc all have heatsinks on them I can't see what else is fried from a quick inspection. Would this have been caused by overclocking too much? I set the clocks between 1000mhz and 1038mhz which the seller said they run stable at.
I can do a bit of soldering so if anyone can guide me on where I can get the components I can probably fix it myself. Also do you recommend I change anything else that hasn't been modified to improve it, i.e barrel connector, heatsink, etc.
Also one of the barrel power connectors from the PSU has its plastic melted slightly but the connector itself looks fine and there are no burn marks on it.
I'm using a 750w PSU to power it as well as 2 stock unmodified Gridseed blades. I only had it running for a couple hours when the PSU shut down. I looked at the modified blade and there are scorch marks between the Barrel connector and USB port, the chip that visibly appears to be fried is the one between the USB and Barrel port labelled AFR26.
Pics of the blades below:
http://i59.tinypic.com/50i9dz.jpg
http://i60.tinypic.com/10f6ip5.jpg
http://i59.tinypic.com/2udxgcp.jpg
http://i58.tinypic.com/212sq68.jpg
As the mosfets and chokes, etc all have heatsinks on them I can't see what else is fried from a quick inspection. Would this have been caused by overclocking too much? I set the clocks between 1000mhz and 1038mhz which the seller said they run stable at.
I can do a bit of soldering so if anyone can guide me on where I can get the components I can probably fix it myself. Also do you recommend I change anything else that hasn't been modified to improve it, i.e barrel connector, heatsink, etc.
Also one of the barrel power connectors from the PSU has its plastic melted slightly but the connector itself looks fine and there are no burn marks on it.
OK the Part AFB26 which burned out is an 300ohm@100MHz,1.5A size 0805. I just ordered 100+ of those so if you need any parts than E-mail me at store@lumanet.info we are also custom rebuilding those and other Gridseed units. Currently we replace the standard Power with a much better version to reduce heat and improve efficiency. I can email photos .... let me try to upload one here :
http://i61.tinypic.com/231dhe.jpg
And swap out the resistor down to 40K Ohm :-) or you better also replace the mosfet.
Re: [DIY] - Reward $100 | Antminer S1/S3 Blade on Raspberry Pi
And here is the routed board
http://i.imgur.com/hVGMPJ8.png?1
Trim pot at the top left is here to allow fan speed control.
http://i.imgur.com/hVGMPJ8.png?1
Trim pot at the top left is here to allow fan speed control.
When and where can I buy those
Olaf
HI Everyone,
I did some extensive work on my Gridseed blades and found now the perfect tuning / modification combination.
If you replace the resistor to an 40KOhm resistor I highly recommend a better capacitor, PSU and also better mosfet.
Here are some photos of my latest Blade I modded. Also highly recommended you better replace the Power infeed like I did otherwise your Power connector will melt.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/trfftgyykag742g/Photo%20May%2011%2C%204%2036%2047%20PM.jpg?dl=0
We do also offer this service at Lumanet.info just let us know and we work with you. Even on repair.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/to43143yrk08d7f/Photo%20May%2011%2C%204%2037%2011%20PM.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/vufe69q5dwo8bt9/Photo%20May%2011%2C%204%2048%2020%20PM.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ojfstren7ibwfi8/Photo%20May%2011%2C%205%2043%2058%20PM.jpg
I did some extensive work on my Gridseed blades and found now the perfect tuning / modification combination.
If you replace the resistor to an 40KOhm resistor I highly recommend a better capacitor, PSU and also better mosfet.
Here are some photos of my latest Blade I modded. Also highly recommended you better replace the Power infeed like I did otherwise your Power connector will melt.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/trfftgyykag742g/Photo%20May%2011%2C%204%2036%2047%20PM.jpg?dl=0
We do also offer this service at Lumanet.info just let us know and we work with you. Even on repair.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/to43143yrk08d7f/Photo%20May%2011%2C%204%2037%2011%20PM.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/vufe69q5dwo8bt9/Photo%20May%2011%2C%204%2048%2020%20PM.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ojfstren7ibwfi8/Photo%20May%2011%2C%205%2043%2058%20PM.jpg
