The guy is offline for more than 8 days now, I hope he managed to recover that small fortune he had and didn't got scammed on the way.
It would be nice if the OP drops only a note if they manage to recover the drive and what was the solution when that happens.

I start thinking now that maybe the drive itself has no problem but the problem is actually a corrupted TrueCrypt container which can lead to the same problems. TrueCrypt and SSD is not the best combination seems like it.

How about make a plan to start troubleshooting first the eventual software issues and the top priority is to analyze the error not try to fix it because it could lead to data loss, since it will be impossible to replicate the same issue on different hard drive.

I don't know if this would help but maybe raw clone the disk with something like Norton Ghost or https://hddguru.com/software/HDD-Raw-Copy-Tool/ if it gets trough. I never played with encrypted SSD, mechanical drives are much easier to recover.

1st. try to replicate the drive.
2dn. Analyze the encrypted partition.
3rd. If it's the partition then try to recover the MBR.

From experience I can say that there's much higher chance to get thinks working on an older machine, like 2011 model MB with SATAIII (3.0) controller, or from 2007 and before with SATAII. They work much more stable then the newest SATA releases. But this is just my personal experience.

I do not recommend you to update the firmware because it will overwrite the internal encryption key and you will loose all chance on a successful outcome.

Please read the datasheet.


traditional ways will not work , nor normal recovery , top proffestional ( LIMITED as in my country ) said controller is burned , maybe some people fucked it before with heat when they trying to repair .
i was shocked that it is giving a signal on the PC when i put , it was not before .

Can you message me with your telegram to work on this together please.

I just now read that the drive is visible in the system. I thought you said it's not detected at all.
I see someone tried to do rework of some components on the left side of the chip, not so nice work done there tho...
We need to know a few things.

Are there any components changed?
Was the drive visible in the system before those "repairs"?
Have you tried mounting the device directly, not trough the USB but directly to the mother board with SATA cable?

Get a proper picture of both sided of the drive. I did not expect so much physical "repairs" done.

if the drive is detected then it would be possible to update the firmware, but again a big WARNING! There is a high chance that the firmware update could delete the information on the drive.

If you don't have the password/seed/pr.keys saved on the drive and you have a strong wallet password, I again suggest that data should be recovered by someone who knows what he is doing.

so we are talking about the "Sandforce SF-2281 controller" (or something like that) I guess.
use AES256 encyption

There are some companies out there which can recover it.

But, first IMHO you (anybody who is a pro!) has to check what's the fault. Is is a power supply chip for e.g. the controller, is it a simple fuse,
is it a destroyed voltage regulator, etc... is it the chip itself, and so on...

Normally, to check whether a chip is broken or not you have to -> measure it. (anything else - please don't get me wrong - is guessing)
(ok, not if completly destroyed / burned, etc... )

Bye,

I think there is at least 80% hope.
But you need the right skills and tools to get it done.
Reading your last query it appears to me that the best route from here is to go on and extract the raw data from each of these NAND chips.
Once extracted you can mount the image in read only mode to examine it further, and possibly decrypt whatever part is left of it.
Your are lucky because sometimes these chips are baked onto the board with the connections on the bottom side leaving them unreachable. In your case the connections are on the sides which makes them accessible with needle or test clip adapters to access the data.
You can see on youtube some repair men have a channel and they will demonstrate to you the process of repair and recovery and much can be learned from there.
It's important however that you have the key to decrypt the data otherwise that obstacle would reduce my expectations from 80 to about 1~5 % and i would consider the funds lost.
Did you say you used Truecrypt ? or Veracrypt ??
If you have the key and the data is there then there is no reason to give up yet.

No this will not work because those are targeted at PCIe SSD and yours is different from that.
And even if it worked you can use Gnome Disks (which is free) to pull an extended S.M.A.R.T report.
But like i said this will only work if the firmware still boots and the drive still communicates with the SATA interface bus.

If your hardware is damaged you will have to pull the raw data from each of the chips one by one.
But i do not think this is the case i have rarely ever seen this.

You did not tell much about how this problem arise.
Maybe the drive was full, some drives cycles sectors to extend lifetime and if there is a problem the firmware will lock the drive and prevent read write access.
Or maybe you live in a country that has a dirty mains electricity with many spikes present, for example when you are living close to some industrial area where there are factories that operate huge motors that fire spikes and over voltage back into the mains lines, of course such events can damage your sensitive computer equipment.

You can examine the circuit board most usually have a small fuse, if it's possible for you to find the datasheet you can examine the levels of the components with a voltmeter.
Many times the components are numbered C1 R6 F1 D5 or Q8 and etc. You can see C stands for Capacitor, R stands for Resistor and F stands for Fuse D is Diode and Q is a Transistor or IC.

Normally there is only one Fuse so that would be F1 and it is placed right after the power plug where the power enters the circuit board. You can check this Fuse with a voltmeter on the resistor or Ohm setting if it shows 0.00 the Fuse is good if it shows OL or OPEN LOOP then the Fuse is bad and it most likely saved the rest of the hardware when it burned through. This is it's purpose this is why it is there. Then you have to replace the fuse and the thing will come back to life again. If you have doubts about any of this then do not make any attempt or action and first study and look at examples until you feel comfortable to dive in.
  
Those are just some examples of what could be wrong. We do not know the current condition of the drive whether it still communicates of is a 100% dead. So if you really want useful advice we would have to know a bit more about the current status of the device.

Again, if you do end up finding a service that may recover your disk I wouldn't give them your key to decrypt the disk since I don't think they need it to recover the device. Have you made this question in a more specialized forum ?